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First Public Clicker Training Article - "Shaping Behavior Through Reinforcement" By Cheryl S. Smith

4/17/2018

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The following is the first public article about clicker training.
​
The pdf was originally downloaded from
http://clickandtreat.com/wordpress/?attachment_id=1076
and is transcribed below for easier reading and use with text-to-speech.
firstclickerpublication1993dogworld.pdf
File Size: 2005 kb
File Type: pdf
Download File


Dog World November 1993, Pages 49-50.

Training

Shaping behavior through reinforcement
Operant conditioning enables a trainer to correct unwanted behaviors by using a variable reward system

By Cheryl S. Smith
​

Article Transcription
Would you believe me if I told you I could explain some principles that would allow you to train a dog to do anything it is physically and mentally capable of doing? Without touching the animal and without using a collar and leash?

This was the challenging concept at a recent Karen Pryor/Gary Wilkes Dog Training Seminar.

Karen Pryor is a former dolphin trainer and author of the highly popular book “Don’t Shoot the Dog.” Gary Wilkes is a veterinary behavior specialist who focuses on control of serious behavior problems in dogs. They have presented their seminars to such diverse groups as the National Association of Dog Obedience Instructors and the American Psychological Association.

What they teach is operant conditioning. The concept sounds a little scary, utilizing terms such as successive approximation, limited hold, shaping and stimulus control. Actually, operant conditioning is a very effective way to use reinforcement, and it works on birds, cats, dogs, dolphins, humans, otters and probably any other sentient being you might care to name.

We all use positive reinforcement when we praise or give a treat. But does a dog really understand exactly what you are praising, especially when a new behavior is being taught? If you are teaching a dog to sit, for example, has she already sat down or gotten up by the time the words “Good girl” come out of your mouth? What does the dog then think is the desired behavior?

This is where a conditioned reinforcer comes in. Words are too obtuse and lengthy to pinpoint a small action, but a whistle or a clicker can be sounded at the instant of the behavior you are after. If you follow the sound with the usual treat or praise, the dog will quickly learn that the chosen sound - be it a whistle, clicker, or something else - means, “You’re doing the right thing, your reward will be coming.” Because you can now delay the reward, you can work at a distance from the dog and still let it know when it is performing as desired.

With this concept as our only new information, we played the Training Game. One of the seminar participants volunteered to be the “dolphin” (training subject), and left the room so that we could decide on a behavior that our trainer would teach the dolphin. We chose to have the dolphin go to the center of the “pool” and spin in circles. Our volunteer came back in and we began.

She moved aimlessly about the room and got a click every time she headed toward the center. On several passes she got clicked as she reached the center. But on the next pass there was no click. She was visibly startled, and backed up. When she reached the center she got a click.
Now she knew to go to the center of the room, but had no idea what to do once she got there. So she went to the center and turned slightly to look at the trainer for a clue . . . and she got a click. Now she thought she really had it. She marched off in a new direction. This got a click at the turn several times, but then no click.

Our dolphin hurried back to the center. Quarter turn to the left, click. Turn back, nothing. Again, same results. Half-turn to the left, click. It was only another few seconds before she was spinning joyously in circles.

The exercise was a revelation. No verbal information at all was given, but our trainer had the volunteer performing the behavior in 10 minutes or less. Since we are much more adept at reading the facial expressions and body language of other people than of other species, we could easily see the emotions of the volunteer. She came in intrigued and curious. The first few clicks seemed to be agreeable, but when she wasn’t sure what to do once she got to the center she became confused and mildly upset. Once she thought she had it figured out she was pleased, and when she was proved wrong, she became frustrated and almost ready to quit.

Having witnessed this, we now watched a young Labrador Retriever with no obedience training learn to down and stay. The treat was shown to the dog and moved so that the dog sat. The dog got a click and the treat. This was repeated a few times, then the treat was moved so that the dog was sitting but with her head bent down. At no time did the trainer push or pull on the dog.

The really amazing part came after the dog had gotten maybe a dozen clicks for lying down. The trainer showed her the treat then moved it back against his chest. The dog tried to follow it and was calmly told “wrong.” The dog laid down and got a click and the treat. The clicks started again - the treat was shown to the dog and taken away. We could see the dog thinking, and she slowly collapsed into the down. For that she got a click and a handful of treats.

The whole action had to be reinforced when the trainer stood up (he had been sitting on the ground), but in no time the dog would down and stay until she received the click. You could then start putting commands or signals to the behavior, and have a dog that knows the “down-stay” in one or two lessons.

Watching a person go through the procedure first helped us to see the reactions of the dog, who exhibited a very similar range of emotions, from enjoyment to confusion to frustration to joy.

Next we were introduced to negative reinforcement. Again, this is something we all use, whether it is a scolding, a scruff shake or a yank on the chain. However, the rule in operant conditioning is to give a warning before you give any correction.

A 9-month-old St. Bernard with a pulling problem was used for this demonstration. A rolled-up towel, referred to as a “bonker,” was the negative reinforcement. Our trainer begin walking around with the dog, and when the dog started to move ahead of him, he said “No,” and threw the bonker at the dog’s head. Obviously, a little rolled-up towel is not hurting a big St. Bernard, but at the third “No,” the dog backed up until he was behind the trainer.

Our two trainers explained that the negative reinforcement is used to disrupt the unwanted behavior. Once that is achieved, you replace the unwanted behavior with some desired behavior. Now the St. Bernard was clicked and treated for being in heel position, and this gigantic puppy was walking sedately at a heel in no time.

While it is fine to give a treat every time while you are shaping a behavior, if you were to continue this way, the dog would soon learn to do the least possible work to earn the treat. Once a behavior is occurring reliably, you can switch to variable reinforcement; you reward only the best performances of the behavior.

Don’t raise your sights too high all at once, or the dog may get discouraged and quit; rather, gradually demand better and better performances. Improvement usually happens quickly, and both you and the dog will be delighted with the outcome.

There was so much more to this seminar than can be covered in one article - stimulus control, behavior chains and a funny warning about compound commands (the “sit sit” syndrome). For a more in-depth discussion of these concepts, read Pryor’s book, “Don’t Shoot the Dog.” Be sure to play the Training Game with people; you’ll learn much about how this system works. As Pryor warns, this is a way to think about training, not a set of rigid rules. Each trainer will shape a behavior slightly differently, clicking at a different time and demanding higher or lower standards from the beginning.

You may even find yourself using what you’ve learned on your boss or co-worker. Primarily, I hope you will use it to better understand your dog.

I knew I wanted to train my next dog without a choke chain and without punishing him before he knew what he was doing to earn the punishment. Operant conditioning has given me a whole new language to use.

Cheryl S. Smith lives in Campbell, Calif., with one human and four canine roommates, some of whom are trained better than others.
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Paws Of Service Dog Training’s Service Dog Candidate Quick Tips

12/22/2015

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Paws Of Service Dog Training’s
Service Dog Candidate Quick Tips
 

This is written for puppies and young dogs that have been chosen as a candidate for future Service Dog work. We cannot possibly include everything so ask us if you have any questions!

 
DIET & EXERCISE
  • Feed a good food – Prey Model Raw or a high-quality grain-free kibble. Good food is not a cost you want to skimp on especially for a growing puppy 2 years or younger!
  • Keep your puppy at a good weight - overweight puppies are at risk of bone and cartilage damage. If you aren’t sure – ask! You should be able to feel but not see the ribs on the puppy. A little thin is better than a little fat.
  • Play with the puppy and let the puppy run and play at its will but do not force the puppy to go on jogs or runs and try to prevent the puppy from jumping to avoid bone and cartilage injuries!
 
Click here to check out our Service Dog Training Page

CRATE TRAINING & HOUSEBREAKING
  • Begin crate training and housebreaking your puppy as soon as you get it. The goal is for the puppy to be comfortable in its crate – with and without you in the room. One special thing about housebreaking a Service Dog candidate that you might not think to do is to create a command for the dog to go potty – this will come in handy later. We use “Go Park” for our potty command but you can use whatever words you like.
  • Let the dog potty on as many different surfaces in as many different places as possible – grass, wood chips, artificial turf, rocks of various sizes, and cement. People don’t think about cement but when you need to go shopping and all you see is a sea of cement parking lot this will come in handy!
 
SOCIALIZING YOUR DOG
  • As hard as this is - limit interaction between the puppy and other members of the family. As much as you are tempted to let your significant other to play with the puppy or to help potty train it and let the kids play with the puppy it is important to realize that this puppy is not a family pet. It will have an important job to do and needs to bond with the disabled handler.
  • Socialize your dog to as many things and people as possible. Let me make an important distinction here – the goal is for the dog to be comfortable and relaxed around as many people and things as possible. Do not force the puppy to interact with people and things. People (and other dogs) need to become like objects in the environment not a source of fun or food unless a specific situation requires it (usually fear). There are many “socialization lists” available online with many objects and situations to socialize your puppy to – the more you can complete at least once by 16 weeks of age the better.
  • You may be tempted to take the dog with you to non-pet friendly places under the idea that it will be a Service Dog – DON’T. It is ILLEGAL in the State Of Michigan to take a dog into a non-pet friendly place if you are not a Service Dog Trainer working for a business punishable by fines and/or jail time.
  • If your dog is housebroken, you may ask businesses that do not sell food for written permission from a manager to visit/train in their store. Keep this written permission on you every single time you visit that store in case an employee asks or a customer harasses you. Find as many pet friendly venues as possible but always remember to bring poo bags and cleanup supplies in case of an accident – it can and will happen even to older working Service Dogs so please be prepared.
 
THE FIRST OBEDIENCE COMMANDS
  • DO NOT TEACH YOUR DOG TO SIT!
  • The first obedience commands to work on are –
    • Potty on command
    • Down (lay down)
    • Stand
    • Come
    • Wait
    • Let’s Go (informal heeling – discuss with us where you should encourage your dog to walk beside you this may vary from person to person depending on the disability)
    • Off (get your paws off of a person or object)
 
AN EXERCISE IN PATIENCE
  • Investing in a short non-chewable leash or tie-down is very handy for teaching your puppy to lie calmly at your feet. Start at home and then as the puppy gets older this makes transitioning this behavior to public easier.
 
NEUTERING & VACCINATIONS
  • Across the working dog community, it is common practice to keep dogs intact as long as possible with the recommendations being keeping the dog intact until their 2nd birthday at a minimum. The reason for this is that this allows the dog to retain their important growth hormones and allows their bodies to grow to the appropriate height and allows for proper bone growth. This is extremely important in any dog that will being performing physical tasks – brace work, balance work, protection and police dogs, search and rescue dogs, hunting dogs, performance dogs, etc.
  • There is one exception that overrides keeping a dog intact until at least its second birthday – Cryptorchidism – males with this condition should be neutered at one year of age unless recommended otherwise by a veterinarian experienced with Cryptorchidism.
  • If you cannot keep your dog intact until two years of age, please consider hormone-saving procedures such as tubal ligations and vasectomies.
  • We recommend Dr. Jean Dodd’s Minimal Vaccination Protocol.
    • http://drjeandoddspethealthresource.tumblr.com/post/109120251541/dodds-vaccine-protocol-2015#.VnOcqPkrLIU
      • 9-10 Weeks Old: Distemper + Parvovirus, MLV (Modified Live Vaccine)
      • 14-16 Weeks: Same as above
      • 20 Weeks or Older (if allowable by law): Rabies
      • 1 Year: Distemper + Parvovirus, MLV (optional = titer)
      • 1 Year after the initial dose: Rabies, killed 3-year product (give 3-4 weeks apart from distemper/parvovirus booster)
https://amzn.to/2CGrVBJ
https://amzn.to/2x6iQMG
If there is one book we can recommend for puppies it is this one. We love this easy to follow book and the “umbilical training” –
Perfect Puppy in 7 Days: How to Start Your Puppy Off Right by Dr. Sophia Yin
There is a companion DVD available for visual learners –
​Creating the Perfect Puppy (Lecture) DVD by Dr. Sophia Yin
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