​Latest Update: September 10, 2018

We are often asked what supplements we use and recommend, especially from new puppy owners and occasionally from fellow performance event competitors. Here are our top 3 recommendations for general health and well-being. We are not paid to endorse any of these products by the manufacturers. We use them and recommend them because we believe these are quality supplements.

*Disclaimer: These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. This post and its contents are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease and is not meant to replace proper veterinary care. The suggestions in this post are based on experience, research, and what we use here at Paws Of Service Dog Training. Paws Of Service Dog Training assumes no responsibility or liability for the use of the information in this post. It is provided as a general resource and we are unable to monitor its use with all readers. If you have any concerns about your pet’s health, please contact your holistic veterinarian or other competent professional.

Product Summary From Springtime, Inc.
​
“C-Complex is a powerful vitamin-C formula, enhanced with bioflavonoids and nutrient-rich bee pollen. Excellent for immune support, for maintaining healthy joint tissue, and for maintaining a healthy inflammatory response. C-Complex excels as a free radical scavenger, a healthy immune system supporter, capillary protector, and general health supplement. Whole-food ingredients make this product a truly deluxe version of the classic vitamin C standby.”

Ingredients –

Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) - The “master vitamin,” supports a healthy immune system, a normal inflammatory response, and strengthens collagen which is the vital component of tissue, tendon, ligament, and joint health. This is a water-soluble vitamin and must be given consistently since the body will not store water soluble vitamins. It will help only when help is needed.*

Bee Pollen - The male germ cell of plants, the most nutritious part. Contains powerful whole-food antioxidants, vitamins, minerals and hormones potentiated by massive amounts of live enzyme activity. Pollen contains greater concentrations of ¬living enzymes than any other part of the plant. Scientists state that enzymes are absolutely essential for every biochemical function of the body.*

Carrot Powder – Carrots are one the world’s richest source of carotenoids, a class of compounds related to vitamin A. Some act as antioxidants or have other important functions. The best known of these is beta-carotene but there are others including alpha- and gamma-carotene, lutein, and lycopene. When foods containing beta-carotenes are consumed, the beta-carotene is converted into vitamin A in the liver. Since the liver only converts what it needs, carrot powder is a totally safe source of vitamin A.*

Citrus Bioflavonoid Complex (40%) - A biologically active antioxidant that helps optimize vitamin C absorption and utilization. Also known to support a healthy inflammatory response and cellular membrane health.*

Hesperidin (85%) - A flavonoid, usually extracted from citrus, that has been noted in studies for antioxidant effects and to support a normal inflammatory response. Hesperidin also increases circulation and offers possible brain protective effects.*

Rutin (Vitamin P) – Rutin is a flavonoid, derived primarily from buckwheat, that supports a healhty circulatory system. Rutin is also noted for its powerful antioxidant properties and it helps the body produce collagen and use vitamin C.*

https://amzn.to/2QkPkvk

**Important Note: Give the exact or less than the recommended dose of this supplement to growing puppies under 24 months/2 years of age. The recommended dose to be given needs to be based on the growing puppy’s current weight – not their expected adult weight. This is a very strong supplement and it packs a powerful mix of nutrients. More is not better in the case of growing puppies.

Do not give this supplement in conjunction with kelp or other supplements that contain kelp.

Product Summary From Springtime, Inc.

“Longevity is the most comprehensive health supplement we have for dogs at all life stages. A powdered formula that is easily mixed into wet food, Longevity helps to nutritionally support growing puppies as well as aging seniors. The live enzymes, vitamins, and minerals in Longevity contribute to digestive, immune, and joint health, and also maintain healthy energy levels. Longevity is especially useful in supporting the body's daily detoxification process, which helps dogs stave off common environmental toxins. Some customers may prefer using chewable supplements over a powder for dry feeding programs. The Combo (Fresh Factors and Joint Health Chewables sold together) contain most of Longevity's ingredients in a chewable form.”

Ingredients – 

Bee Pollen – The male germ cell of plants, the most nutritious part. Contains powerful whole-food antioxidants, vitamins, minerals and hormones potentiated by massive amounts of live enzyme activity. Pollen contains greater concentrations of ¬living enzymes than any other part of the plant. Scientists state that enzymes are absolutely essential for every biochemical function of the body.*

Spirulina (micro-algae) –  Spirulina is a microscopic blue-green vegetable algae that supports healthy endocrine, nervous, and immune systems. Spirulina is a source of highly absorbable protein, mixed carotenoids, and other phytonutrients, B-Vitamins, GLA, and essential amino acids. Spirulina has emerged as an especially healthy whole food for humans and animals alike.*

Dessicated Beef Liver – Liver is a rich source of B vitamins, iron and trace minerals which naturally support the body’s quest for health and energy.*

Nutritional Yeast Culture – One of nature’s best vitamin foods, yeast culture nutritional and live enzyme support to the body’s digestive system.*

Chondrotin Sulfate (Bovine Cartilage Extract – minmum 90% purity) – Chondroitin sulfate is a naturally occurring molecule found in the cartilage and connective tissues of people and animals. Chondroitin is the substance that enables cartilage to provide cushion to healthy joints, and is what the body uses to make new cartilage. Chondroitin also serves a vital role in the maintenance of healthy skin/coat. Chondroitin can be taken as a supplement for maintaining healthy cartilage, joint lubrication, skin/coat, and for a normal inflammatory response.* 

Glucosamine HCL (99%) – Glucosamine is an amino sugar produced by the body for use in tendons, ligaments, cartilage, and in the fluid around the body’s joints. Glucosamine supplements help support joint health in people, dogs, and horses by giving the body the additional glucosamine it requires to maintain healthy joint tissue and fluid.*

MSM (Methyl Sulfonyl Methane 99%) – MSM (methylsulfonylmethane) is a naturally occurring sulfur compound found in plants, animals, and humans. MSM is believed to support a normal inflammatory response and is widely used as a supplement for joint health.*

Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) – The “master vitamin,” supports a healthy immune system, a normal inflammatory response, and strengthens collagen which is the vital component of tissue, tendon, ligament, and joint health. This is a water-soluble vitamin and must be given consistently since the body will not store water soluble vitamins. It will help only when help is needed.*

Citrus Bioflaonoid Complex (40%) – Citrus Bioflavonoid Complex (40%) - A biologically active antioxidant that helps optimize vitamin C absorption and utilization. Also known to support a healthy inflammatory response and cellular membrane health.*

Carrot Powder – Carrots are one the world’s richest source of carotenoids, a class of compounds related to vitamin A. Some act as antioxidants or have other important functions. The best known of these is beta-carotene but there are others including alpha- and gamma-carotene, lutein, and lycopene. When foods containing beta-carotenes are consumed, the beta-carotene is converted into vitamin A in the liver. Since the liver only converts what it needs, carrot powder is a totally safe source of vitamin A.*

Hesperidin (85%) – A flavonoid, usually extracted from citrus, that has been noted in studies for antioxidant effects and to support a normal inflammatory response. Hesperidin also increases circulation and offers possible brain protective effects.*

Kelp – Kelp is a leafy form of brown-algae seaweed that absorbs a vast variety of nutrients and minerals present in the water around it. Kelp is a commonly eaten food in many places, especially in Japan where it has been used as a food and for health benefits for thousands of years. Kelp has gained popularity in recent decades as a supplement, because it is rich in vitamins (A, B1, B2, C, D and E) as well as minerals (zinc, iodine, magnesium, iron, potassium, copper and calcium). In addition to its nutritional value, kelp is known to support healthy skin/coat, for maintaining healthy weight and blood pressure.*

Sea Salt – Genuine sea salt is composed of naturally occurring potassium, calcium, magnesium, and trace elements. This mineral-rich salt is often used as a source of electrolytes.*

Biotin – Biotin is a B-vitamin that plays a key role in the production of skin, nails, and hair. The B-complex vitamins, like biotin, help the body convert carbohydrates, fats, and protein into energy. Biotin is used by the body to maintain the health of skin, the digestive tract, and the nervous system.*

There are three supplements I use to accomplish this –

• Brunswick Sardines (In Spring Water No Salt Added)
• Grizzly Salmon Oil
• Iceland Pure Unscented Sardine and Anchovy Oil

Which one I use depends on what I have on hand and what the meal consists of. I feel it is important to rotate various fish oils and am considering trying Iceland Pure’s new product, Premier Omega fish oil. It is sardine and anchovy based but contains higher levels of EPA and DHA than the unscented sardine and anchovy oil. I try to use the whole food sardines from Brunswick as much as possible. Note: In the last month Brunswick stopped canning whole sardines (Left Photo) and now have “gourmet style fillets.” (Right Photo) 

​Our regimen for fish oil - since I read an article first featured in the December 2012 Issue of The Whole Dog Journal on dietary fats going rancid (click here for the updated article from The Whole Dog Journal), I have been using one whole can of Brunswick Sardines In Spring Water No Salt Added 1 to 2 times per week and one to two pumps of either fish oil 1 to 2 times per week.

Too much oil will coat the dog’s intestines and cause them to temporarily be unable to absorb other nutrients. Therefore, we do not use or recommend using fish or fish oils on consecutive days or more than 3 days per week.

It is important to store all fish oil and opened cans of fish in the refrigerator to prevent the fats from oxidizing (no, I don’t care if the bottle says otherwise, better safe and cold than oxidized and useless). Use bottles of fish oil within 60 days and opened cans of fish within 3-5 days. If you prefer to buy large bottles of fish oil to save money, freeze what you will not use within the 60 days.

Springtime, Inc. Bug Off Garlic Granules
https://amzn.to/2QkIfee

Springtime, Inc. Bug Off Garlic Granules (also available in a chewable tablets)

We can't live without this product! While it doesn't exactly fit "general health" this is another highly recommended product and our #1 choice to fight against fleas, ticks, mosquitoes, gnats, flies, other biting insects, and giardia! We have found this supplement to be more effective than chemical products in preventing insect infestations. If you already have an infestation talk with your veterinarian about treating your current infestation and use the garlic granules to prevent future infestations.

If you have a large number of dogs, purchase the container marketed for horses. It is the same human-grade product but in a bulk quantity.

From Springtime, Inc. - "Veterinarians versed in natural alternatives use garlic in their private practices throughout the world. While best known for its health protective properties, garlic has been used for centuries as an insect repellent. Springtime's air-dried garlic takes that benefit to a new level and is far safer than many chemical products. You may use this product with total confidence. Year round, long-term use is absolutely safe and highly recommended!"

Ingredients -

100% Air-Dried Garlic Granules – Nutrient rich and aromatic, air-dried granules are most well known as a non-toxic bug repellent, a natural detoxicant, and as a dietary sulfur. Garlic is nature's insect repellent. It is a powerful and safe way to protect your horse or dog from fleas, ticks, and other biting insects. Best of all, garlic doesn't have the dangerous and painful effects common to sprays and spot-on chemicals for flea and tick control.* (Definition from Springtime, Inc.)

Also available in chewable tablets (Ingredients: garlic, active dry yeast, dextrose, desiccated beef liver, microcrystalline cellulose, stearic acid)

Springtime, Inc. Bug Off Garlic Chewable Tablets
https://amzn.to/2QiS24i

DASUQUIN® With MSM Chewable Tablets (also available in soft chews) – Joint supplement we used in the past prior to learning about Springtime Longevity (Longevity also contains Glucosamine, Chondroitin, and MSM so there is no need to give both Longevity and Dasuquin in my opinion). Dasuquin now has DASUQUIN® Advanced Chewable Tablets which adds a few antioxidants to the ingredients.

Inflight Coat Formula – Used for keeping dogs in show coats, repairing/replacing damaged coats, and growing new coats. I can not deny the results we have experienced first hand with this coat supplement. Inflight Coat Formula (ICF) may make a dog hold it's coat through normal shedding periods. It is recommended that you take your dog off ICF and allow the coat to shed naturally, then put your dog back on the formula.

The following is the first public article about clicker training.
​
The pdf was originally downloaded from
http://clickandtreat.com/wordpress/?attachment_id=1076
and is transcribed below for easier reading and use with text-to-speech.

Dog World November 1993, Pages 49-50.

Training

Shaping behavior through reinforcement
Operant conditioning enables a trainer to correct unwanted behaviors by using a variable reward system

By Cheryl S. Smith
​
Article Transcription

Would you believe me if I told you I could explain some principles that would allow you to train a dog to do anything it is physically and mentally capable of doing? Without touching the animal and without using a collar and leash?

This was the challenging concept at a recent Karen Pryor/Gary Wilkes Dog Training Seminar.

Karen Pryor is a former dolphin trainer and author of the highly popular book “Don’t Shoot the Dog.” Gary Wilkes is a veterinary behavior specialist who focuses on control of serious behavior problems in dogs. They have presented their seminars to such diverse groups as the National Association of Dog Obedience Instructors and the American Psychological Association.

What they teach is operant conditioning. The concept sounds a little scary, utilizing terms such as successive approximation, limited hold, shaping and stimulus control. Actually, operant conditioning is a very effective way to use reinforcement, and it works on birds, cats, dogs, dolphins, humans, otters and probably any other sentient being you might care to name.

We all use positive reinforcement when we praise or give a treat. But does a dog really understand exactly what you are praising, especially when a new behavior is being taught? If you are teaching a dog to sit, for example, has she already sat down or gotten up by the time the words “Good girl” come out of your mouth? What does the dog then think is the desired behavior?

This is where a conditioned reinforcer comes in. Words are too obtuse and lengthy to pinpoint a small action, but a whistle or a clicker can be sounded at the instant of the behavior you are after. If you follow the sound with the usual treat or praise, the dog will quickly learn that the chosen sound - be it a whistle, clicker, or something else - means, “You’re doing the right thing, your reward will be coming.” Because you can now delay the reward, you can work at a distance from the dog and still let it know when it is performing as desired.

With this concept as our only new information, we played the Training Game. One of the seminar participants volunteered to be the “dolphin” (training subject), and left the room so that we could decide on a behavior that our trainer would teach the dolphin. We chose to have the dolphin go to the center of the “pool” and spin in circles. Our volunteer came back in and we began.

She moved aimlessly about the room and got a click every time she headed toward the center. On several passes she got clicked as she reached the center. But on the next pass there was no click. She was visibly startled, and backed up. When she reached the center she got a click.
Now she knew to go to the center of the room, but had no idea what to do once she got there. So she went to the center and turned slightly to look at the trainer for a clue . . . and she got a click. Now she thought she really had it. She marched off in a new direction. This got a click at the turn several times, but then no click.

Our dolphin hurried back to the center. Quarter turn to the left, click. Turn back, nothing. Again, same results. Half-turn to the left, click. It was only another few seconds before she was spinning joyously in circles.

The exercise was a revelation. No verbal information at all was given, but our trainer had the volunteer performing the behavior in 10 minutes or less. Since we are much more adept at reading the facial expressions and body language of other people than of other species, we could easily see the emotions of the volunteer. She came in intrigued and curious. The first few clicks seemed to be agreeable, but when she wasn’t sure what to do once she got to the center she became confused and mildly upset. Once she thought she had it figured out she was pleased, and when she was proved wrong, she became frustrated and almost ready to quit.

Having witnessed this, we now watched a young Labrador Retriever with no obedience training learn to down and stay. The treat was shown to the dog and moved so that the dog sat. The dog got a click and the treat. This was repeated a few times, then the treat was moved so that the dog was sitting but with her head bent down. At no time did the trainer push or pull on the dog.

The really amazing part came after the dog had gotten maybe a dozen clicks for lying down. The trainer showed her the treat then moved it back against his chest. The dog tried to follow it and was calmly told “wrong.” The dog laid down and got a click and the treat. The clicks started again - the treat was shown to the dog and taken away. We could see the dog thinking, and she slowly collapsed into the down. For that she got a click and a handful of treats.

The whole action had to be reinforced when the trainer stood up (he had been sitting on the ground), but in no time the dog would down and stay until she received the click. You could then start putting commands or signals to the behavior, and have a dog that knows the “down-stay” in one or two lessons.

Watching a person go through the procedure first helped us to see the reactions of the dog, who exhibited a very similar range of emotions, from enjoyment to confusion to frustration to joy.

Next we were introduced to negative reinforcement. Again, this is something we all use, whether it is a scolding, a scruff shake or a yank on the chain. However, the rule in operant conditioning is to give a warning before you give any correction.

A 9-month-old St. Bernard with a pulling problem was used for this demonstration. A rolled-up towel, referred to as a “bonker,” was the negative reinforcement. Our trainer begin walking around with the dog, and when the dog started to move ahead of him, he said “No,” and threw the bonker at the dog’s head. Obviously, a little rolled-up towel is not hurting a big St. Bernard, but at the third “No,” the dog backed up until he was behind the trainer.

Our two trainers explained that the negative reinforcement is used to disrupt the unwanted behavior. Once that is achieved, you replace the unwanted behavior with some desired behavior. Now the St. Bernard was clicked and treated for being in heel position, and this gigantic puppy was walking sedately at a heel in no time.

While it is fine to give a treat every time while you are shaping a behavior, if you were to continue this way, the dog would soon learn to do the least possible work to earn the treat. Once a behavior is occurring reliably, you can switch to variable reinforcement; you reward only the best performances of the behavior.

Don’t raise your sights too high all at once, or the dog may get discouraged and quit; rather, gradually demand better and better performances. Improvement usually happens quickly, and both you and the dog will be delighted with the outcome.

There was so much more to this seminar than can be covered in one article - stimulus control, behavior chains and a funny warning about compound commands (the “sit sit” syndrome). For a more in-depth discussion of these concepts, read Pryor’s book, “Don’t Shoot the Dog.” Be sure to play the Training Game with people; you’ll learn much about how this system works. As Pryor warns, this is a way to think about training, not a set of rigid rules. Each trainer will shape a behavior slightly differently, clicking at a different time and demanding higher or lower standards from the beginning.

You may even find yourself using what you’ve learned on your boss or co-worker. Primarily, I hope you will use it to better understand your dog.

I knew I wanted to train my next dog without a choke chain and without punishing him before he knew what he was doing to earn the punishment. Operant conditioning has given me a whole new language to use.

Cheryl S. Smith lives in Campbell, Calif., with one human and four canine roommates, some of whom are trained better than others.

5-13-2017 - ​We gained permission from the owner to post this story, however, the owner asked us not to share any identifying information.

We recently were contacted about training a young puppy. The owner is a first time dog owner and was working with their third dog trainer at this point and was growing worried about the puppy who was becoming increasingly growly around food, treats, and chews when that behavior wasn't seen previously (the first month this puppy was in this home).

The puppy, being an unruly puppy, had a few other issues and needed general obedience and the owner wasn't seeing any results. They fired their third trainer and arranged a board and train with us at our home in Flint, Michigan.

The puppy settled in well and began playing with adult dogs and quickly learned appropriate behavior and bite inhibition during play. We switched his food with the owner's permission from a low quality kibble to a high quality kibble and saw a reduction in the excessive hyperness and need to absolutely chug down his food as fast as he could. Things were looking up.

Here is a "do not try this at home" -
The puppy received a recreational chew bone, myself knowing full well there was a potential for the resource guarding to pop up because I hadn't yet seen it with this new higher quality kibble. Suddenly, as all the best training experiences seem to happen, it appeared - growling, snarling, and snapping out of this 20 pound puppy. Just a baby, about 4 months old. Because it was a 20 pound puppy - I took the bone and gave it back, took it and gave it back, over and over in a 3 minute session. I was bit but I showed absolutely zero reaction. Very very quickly the puppy realized, biting gets me no where - this person doesn't react or move and when I am quiet I get it back.

Now for the medical part of this story. This puppy had multiple veterinary checks with the usual vaccinations. The owner also told us that the veterinarian performed what the owner described as a rectal exam. The owner verified these things as well as provided a signature that there was no evidence of internal or external parasites that we require from all owners. We are the fourth trainer for this puppy because the others weren't achieving results or weren't otherwise knowledgeable or suitable for various reasons.

Less than a week into his board and train there it was. A dead adult roundworm in his stool.

The puppy (and everyone else in our home) was immediately placed on a worming protocol with fenbendazole (brand names of Safe-Guard and Panacur)*** if they weren't already on a worming medication that included roundworm treatment.
***Consult your veterinarian before administering any worming treatments.

Today is day 4 of treatment and I saw the true severity of this infestation.

Being a first time dog owner, the owner had no idea and took everyone's advice. The veterinarian told the owner that this puppy was free of internal and external parasites. Of the three previous trainers the owner talked to one trainer about health care. The owner was told by that one trainer that the puppy was too young to worry about worming/heartworm medications yet.

I watched the puppy struggle today to pass the shear load of roundworms. 8-10 adult worms in a single segment of stool (beware: picture at the end of this article) and the puppy had passed 5 of these segments in a single potty break this afternoon.

Here is the moral of this story - DO NOT TAKE A NEGATIVE FECAL EXAM OR RECTAL EXAM AS AN "ALL CLEAR" FOR DOGS NO MATTER THEIR AGE.

Even I have been told that my dogs were "negative" for internal parasites only to see them come out in stool after our regular scheduled worming. (Note: We worm our personal dogs at least every 6 months because we attend dog shows regularly).

If you attend a place such as a doggie daycare or if you regularly attend areas that are of high-traffic to dogs make sure you have a regular schedule in place even if they have a "negative fecal exam requirement." Time and time again I have seen dogs with "negative" fecal exams turn out to have parasites.

The most common monthly heartworm medications will cover roundworms and a few other types of worms. Make sure you know exactly what the medications you give your dog(s) covers. Most do NOT cover tapeworms so make sure you have a seperate worming protocol for tapeworms. They also do not cover microscopic parasites such as Giardia - you can not see Giardia with your naked eye and it is very commonly missed by veterinarians. Ask your veterinarian if you have any questions about a regular worming protocol.

Turns out, this poor puppy had never been properly wormed in its entire life. The veterinarian and other dog (training) professionals should have known better and known basic dog health and worming protocols. Seek medical assistance if you visually see worms in stool. I am not going to give medical advice or our worming protocol in this article.

I can't help but think that as the parasite load of this puppy grew, his resource guarding of food sources also grew because the puppy was being increasingly robbed of nutrients to grow by all of these adult roundworms. Without proper guidance from an experienced trainer this would have turned into a major issue in short order with children in the home. With this medical issue taken care of and some additional training, I expect to see the full recovery of this guarding behavior by the end of the board and train program as well as some weight gain for this young pup.

I do not blame the first time dog owner for this at all. They provided us with all the "right" information and veterinary forms - multiple veterinary exams, vaccinations, verification that they had not seen any evidence of internal or external parasites, etc. prior to beginning our board and train program.

Negative fecals will never be a guarantee. Consult with your veterinarian about a regular worming protocol for your dog(s).

​WARNING: PHOTO BELOW

​One of the most disturbing, not to mention disgusting, habits a dog may have is poop eating. Scientifically known as coprophagia, it is very common issue in dog behavior and is one that has owners running for answers. Before we can treat it, we need to know possible causes and to rule out any medical issues.

It Is Instinctual

​Just like stalking prey or circling before lying down your dog may have this remnant instinct still lurking under their skin. Occasionally, we see dogs that are of lower ranking status eat the stool of higher ranking pack members.

​In other situations, such as when a mother has young puppies, the mother will clean her puppies to stimulate them to “go” and then will proceed to ingest any excrement. This keeps her puppies and den clean and prevents predators from finding the babies based on excrement scent.

With wild dogs and other scavengers, they will frequently consume whatever stool they come across to gain any leftover nutrients and/or enzymes that are found in the stool.

Doggy See, Doggy Eat Doo

​Dogs are amazing at learning things from other dogs. Litters of puppies who have had the chance to watch other puppies or adult dogs completing a task are 50% faster at figuring out how to complete the same task when it was their turn. Same thing happens with other behaviors such as barking, dogs who are escape artists, and yes, poop eating. Puppies grow up seeing mom eat the stool and when they start exploring (mainly with their mouths of course) they may pick up the habit. Most of the time this is eliminated by the time the puppy is 8 weeks old and ready to leave mom.

Dogs who live in a multidog household or who frequent places with multiple dogs (dog parks, daycares, boarding facilities, etc) are more likely to eat poop. In a 2012 study, researchers led by Dr. Benjamin Hart, from the University of California, Davis, found that 20% of dogs in single dog households ate poop while 33% of dogs who lived in households of three or more dogs ate poop.

​Dogs also learn from you. If you punish your dog by rubbing his nose in his poop (which is a terrible way to deal with the issue and can cause other problems) or if your dog sees you disposing of his poop, he may try to “dispose of the evidence” or clean up after himself.

​Diet

Your dog’s digestive system has various enzymes to break down food. Dogs that are on processed (kibble, canned, or dehydrated) diets with increased carbohydrates and plant proteins seem to pick up the habit of eating poop more frequently than dogs on low/no carbohydrate, high animal protein diets. Some veterinary nutritionists have suggested that eating stool helps replenish enzymes and recycles waste.

​Overfed dogs and dogs on diets with carbohydrates and plant proteins leave wasted nutrients behind and the dog (or other dogs who have access) may feel inclined to eat the stool with excess nutrients. By improving your dog’s diet, you can decrease or eliminate the odds that your dog will eat or continue to eat stool (more on this in part 2).

Attention

​In many cases, a dog’s behavior is directly related to the owner’s behavior. Attention is attention, whether it is good or bad, and even bad attention can be reinforcing the dog to continue the behavior. Dogs that are bored, lonely, anxious, or stressed may pick up the habit simply out of not having a better outlet or to keep their living area clean just like their mother would have.

​Nutrient or Enzyme Deficiency

​A lack of various B vitamins is often a cited cause for dogs who consume stool. Brewer’s yeast, a multivitamin, or both, can help. Brewer’s yeast is a well-known nutritional supplement known for being packed with chromium and B vitamins as well as helping aid in digestion. There are many brands of brewer’s yeast and multivitamins available at pet specialty stores. Brewer’s yeast should not be given to dogs with any sensitivities to grains.

​Other Medical Causes

​Dogs with an enzyme or nutrient deficiency, parasites, pancreatitis, or other illness are likely to eat stool. All coprophagic dogs should be examined by a veterinarian. There is little scientific knowledge or studies on coprophagia itself but there are both medical and behavioral causes. We urge you to rule out any medical causes with a veterinarian before setting out on any dietary changes.
 
Here are a few of the most common medical conditions that can be linked to coprophagia –

• Pancreatitis: Inflammation of the pancreas that can be triggered by several factors. Infections, metabolic disorders, medications, obesity are just a handful of possible causes of pancreatitis.
• Exocrine Pancreatic Insufficiency: EPI is the result of a malfunctioning pancreas that is not creating enough digestive enzymes.
• Intestinal Infections & Parasites: Infections can happen for any number of reasons, but parasites are a common cause of intestinal stress and infection.
• Malabsorptive Syndromes: The exact cause of this disorder is unknown, but it may be related to allergies to grains (corn, wheat, soy, etc).

 
Dogs who have lived in a home with an ill dog are more likely to begin eating stool. Common theories include that the ill dog is not absorbing all nutrients and thus is leaving behind nutrient rich stool as well as that, from a survival standpoint, cleaning up behind the sick dog will decrease the likelihood of other predators from trying to take advantage of a disabled member of the pack.

In Part 2, available soon, we discuss how to treat this behavior.

It’s not cute when your pet’s life could be in danger or is in danger. It is worse when it is the owner's fault which is more times the case than when it isn’t. I have seen more times than I care to think about owners posting photos or stories about their animals online. The following are just handful of real situations that have come across my facebook in the last 48 hours. Names have been changed to protect the guilty - guilty owners that is.

• “Max ate a hole in my drywall! Look at his guilty face!”
• “RIP my poor furbaby Pixi! She ran out into the road and got hit by a car, she was only one and a half years old.”
• “Diesel broke out of his crate again and ate my sofa!”
• “Lolly dug out under the fence and ran away, please pray for her safe return. She has a collar but no tags.”
• “Penny was bit at the dog park today! Now we are at the emergency vet!”

The list could go on and on! None of these scenarios include what happens when owners don't take their animals to the vet when they begin showing signs of illness or fail to keep them on prescribed medications.

​The worst part? Accidents happen - but most, if not all, of these scenarios can be prevented using three things – Supervision, Management, Training.

Supervision – Watch your dog at all times and/or keep a leash on the dog – freedom is earned it is not a privilege. Some may think this is harsh but would you let your 5 year old run around unsupervised? Some do and what do we get – videos of kids who have smeared their brother head to toe in peanut butter, markers and paint all over the walls and furniture, flour spread ceiling to floor in the entire house, and the list goes on. All I can think is “Where were the parents?” and the same thing goes for dogs. Watch your dog at all times.

There is a whole idea surrounding keeping your dog on leash 24/7 - it's called umbilical training and it is a great way to bond and speed up obedience training. If you are paying attention to your dog, you can prevent and stop so many accidents from happening! While you are at it – reward your dog when they are doing a good behavior. 

Management - anything we do to manage the dog’s behavior. Keeping it on a leash, keeping it in a crate or kennel, having the puppy in an x-pen (exercise pen), providing enough structured exercise, etc.

Training - Training is anything we teach the dog to do – or not to do.

I am going to go through these situations and apply these three things. Supervision is the same for everything – PAY ATTENTION AND WATCH YOUR DOG!

Many comments to these types of posts are sympathetic, "praying for your furbaby" or "awe so sad". No one ever calls out the owner on their negligence and irresponsibility in these situations. I use to feel bad and have sympathy but I have become a bit cynical - DOGS ARE NEEDLESSLY DYING. These animals are the owner's responsibility. Not supervising and managing them for their own safety, not to mention the safety of others, is negligent and inexcusable and can cost your dog its life.

Step up and be a responsible dog owner. Seek help with training if you need it.