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​Ruffwear Front Range Harness

The Ruffwear Front Range Harness is an everyday harness that is easy to put on and is comfortable for dogs to wear with a Y-Shaped fit and brush guard design to protect the chest and belly. This harness features 4 points of size adjustment and two points of attachment for leashes (reinforced webbing loop on the chest and aluminum V-ring on the back).

If you have a dog who is a strong puller, the front attachment does a good job of staying on center when the harness is properly fit without gapping and does not restrict shoulder and front range movement unlike "no-pull harnesses" which can damage skeletal structure causing injury and chronic pain.

Available in 6 Colors

• Blue Dusk
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​Matching Leash -

​Similar Harness -

Matching Leashes -

Matching Collar -

​Other Matching Accessories - 

Anyone who knows about puppy socialization or has been given a "puppy passport" or socialization checklist is familiar with the long lists of people, places, and objects to introduce your puppy to before that all important socialization window closes around 16 weeks (4 months) of age.

You may be thinking, "How can there be MORE stuff? Some of those lists have over 100 items on them!" Well, I'm sorry to add to the list, but here are 10 unusual things that we introduce puppies to before they turn 4 month of age here at Paws Of Service Dog Training that I have not yet seen on any other socialization checklists or puppy passports at the time of this writing (May 8, 2018).

Note: Puppies go through a fear period between approximately 8-10 weeks of age (although this can sometimes happen sooner or later in development). It is best to avoid introducing particularly scary things to your puppy during this time especially if they are on the shy/timid side.

While I do not go into great detail about how to train each item on this list, always make every introduction as happy, upbeat, and positive as possible. Associating these things with high value food is often the easiest way to go.

1.) Riding on the passenger floorboard of a vehicle

All of our puppies learn to ride on the passenger floorboard of cars while they are young regardless of adult size or breed. It is easiest to teach at this time because they are small and as they grow they adjust to fit and it becomes a comfortable habit. We frequently alternate rides in crates and on floorboards for at least the first 6 months we have a puppy (or until at least 8 months of age). This includes large breeds such as Labs, Goldens, and German Shepherds.

While it is safer to have a dog always ride in a crash-approved crate, not everyone owns such a crate or times may come up where crating a dog in the car (or other mode of transportation) is simply not an option. Maybe the car is packed full for a long trip or maybe there are multiple passengers and you need your dog to ride in the space between your feet.

Another scenario where this training comes in handy is if you do ever need to ride on public transportation or in aircraft, the training has already been started and the dog is comfortable in small spaces at your feet.

2.) A tub full of water (puppy's first swim lessons)

Slowly and gently get your puppy use to being chest-height (or higher) in water. It is easy to do this in the tub so you can begin slowly and gradually increase the level as your puppy is comfortable over a number of days. If your puppy is small enough, these can be puppies first swim lessons before they outgrow being able to swim in your bathtub. It is important to work at your puppies pace.

As a bonus besides swimming, if your puppy ever needs hydrotherapy (underwater treadmill) in the future, you will be one step ahead.

Two Varieties Of Muzzles

We believe in muzzle training all dogs. Why? Because you never know when you will need one or when you will be required to have one on your dog regardless of breed.

​In the event of an emergency they are great to have on hand. Most vets will also require dogs to be muzzled if they are seriously injured even if the dog doesn't appear threatening because dogs in pain and/or states of confusion are higher bite risks.

It is also becoming more common for breed specific legislation laws and transportation requirements to mention a requirement to muzzle dogs when in public or on transportation. It is unfortunate but there is also a flip side - muzzles protect YOU and your dog from litigation. No one can lie and say that Fluffy the doodle bit them if your dog is wearing a properly fit muzzle. There is so much more I can go into depth about the hows and whys of that issue but that may be a topic for it's own blog.

3.) Soft Muzzle (Grooming Style Muzzle) - Soft groomer's muzzles are for short term emergencies, grooming, and veterinary requirements.

​4.) Basket Muzzle - Basket muzzles are an option for longer term use and training purposes. These muzzles allow your dog to eat, drink, pant, and open and close their mouth but prevents the dog from making contact with skin, other dogs, and eating large foreign objects like rocks and sticks.

5.) Tables

Teaching your puppy to be stand and be relaxed and calm while on a table isn't just for show dogs! Having a puppy that is comfortable on a table will also help with confidence building, grooming and veterinary exams.

Other than being confident and cool, calm, and collected on the table itself, this is a great time to teach your puppy to calmly stand still (or stack) on the table. Make this training fun! After your puppy understands stacking and standing calm and still, gently introduce grooming (brushing, nails, teeth brushing, ear cleaning, etc) and full-body exams. For our favorite must-have grooming products check out our blog - From Nose To Tail - Our Dog & Cat Grooming Must-Haves

6.) "Cone Of Shame" / Dog Cone / Elizabethan Collar For Dogs

Most dog's first introduction to the cone of shame is after they have had some type of surgery and are in pain. Later, if a cone is needed to prevent a dog from licking or chewing on hotspots, sores, or other injuries the cone comes back out and is once again associated with pain.

Introducing your puppy in a fun way to a cone and not having it associated with pain from the onset of the dog's life can make a big difference in the long run with how your dog handles it and what their stress level is with such devices as an adult.

​While some people prefer inflatable collars (Right Photo), we prefer the cheaper traditional hard plastic cones that are most likely to be used by veterinarians (Left Photo). These cones can also be used as a great confidence building tool for puppies and teaches them to be okay with something strange hanging out over their head.

7.) Litterbox / Potty Patch

I didn't always do this with all my puppies but it is something I have started doing within the last two years - litterbox training dogs regardless of adult size.

There is going to come a time when you can't make it home from work, or make it down the stairs, or you simply can't get to your puppy (or even adult dog) and get them out the door before the dreaded explosive urine / diarrhea hits.

This happened to me more than once with my first dog after we moved into a dorm room on our university campus on the third floor (I am really glad we didn't live on an even higher floor). He was 65 pounds of full adult Catahoula Leopard Dog. One night he was in a dead sleep then suddenly woke up and ran to the door, he had to go.... and go NOW.... there was no stopping it. (Bathroom dreams anyone?) He needed to go or it was going to end up a puddle of which number I didn't know in front of my dorm room door.

I couldn't have him dripping pee or exploding poo on our way down the carpeted hallway and down three flights of stairs! So in my haste, with nothing else to do, I took him into the shower and gave him his trained command to "go".... he looked petrified, I was petrified, he looked back at me.... Go? Inside? WHAT! but a short moment passed and there it was.... all over my dorm room shower. I kept trying to reassure him that it was okay but if he had the guilty look, that was it.

I rinsed his feet and legs, let him out and proceeded to clean the shower. This new "trick" of his come in handy a few more times for emergencies during our stay and at least it was an easy-clean option compared to the possibility of having to scrub carpets otherwise.  I had looked into fake grass potty patches but they didn't have any for dog's his size. We moved out of the dorms and into a ground level apartment and it wasn't thought of again.

Flash forward a couple years and a San Diego airport opened the very first airport pet relief area in the United States in 2013 (pictured above). It consisted of a faux fire hydrant and artificial turf and was used for dogs of any and all sizes. Now indoor bathrooms for service dogs are a big thing in airports, theme parks, and other venues all over the world. This lets dog and owner stay past the security lines while they wait for their flight or other mode of transportation. The bathrooms are completely indoors but have over-sized peastone or fake turf areas for dogs to use relieve themselves.

In the past two years, I have become involved with conformation dog shows and one thing that caught me off guard at my first show was that people pottied their dogs indoors in designated potty areas made of woodchips! In fact, some shows that are "benched", meaning that dogs are not allowed to exit the building during the show hours, require the use of these indoor woodchip potty areas for all dogs.

I had also been seeing other breeders online who were sending their German Shepherd puppies home litterbox trained on woodpellets but it wasn't until we picked up a Golden Retriever puppy (Roman) for service dog training a few months ago that I was able to see all of this first hand. This Golden Retriever breeder had already litterbox trained Roman and his littermates on woodchips since just three weeks of age! Accidents were very minimal and it was easy to take wood shavings outdoors and lay them on the spot we wanted him to go. He also had the option of using the box inside of his crate when he was very tiny  (I know this sounds contradictory to everything you have learned about crate training right?). We were able to sleep through the night and he had an appropriate place to "go" whenever he needed to.

Now Roman is 6 months of age and no longer uses the litterbox regularly, he asks to go outdoors but I am sure that if I set down a box of woodchips he would use it easily regardless of if it was indoor or outdoors.

Whether you choose a potty patch (fake grass) or a woodchip/woodpellet litterbox I think this is a great idea for all dogs to learn and it makes potty training such a breeze and comes in handy in an emergency or on a trip.

8.) Separation with strangers you trust - an exercise in preventing separation anxiety

Curbing separation anxiety can be taught at a young age by doing separation exercises with your puppy with someone you trust. Training is easy, hand over your puppy to your trusted person, let them pet and praise the puppy for calm behavior while you walk away and back. Work up to walking out of sight and back then gradually lengthen the time away up to three minutes and beyond as the puppy ages and increases skill.

​When your puppy is older they will be well equipped to handle time away from you at the vets office, the groomers, and for the AKC Canine Good Citizen and similar tests that require a Supervised Separation exercise.

Note:
AKC Canine Good Citizen
Test 10: Supervised separation
This test demonstrates that a dog can be left with a trusted person, if necessary, and will maintain training and good manners. Evaluators are encouraged to say something like, “Would you like me to watch your dog?” and then take hold of the dog’s leash. The owner will go out of sight for three minutes. The dog does not have to stay in position but should not continually bark, whine, or pace unnecessarily, or show anything stronger than mild agitation or nervousness. Evaluators may talk to the dog but should not engage in excessive talking, petting, or management attempts (e.g. “there, there, it’s alright”).

www.akc.org/products-services/training-programs/canine-good-citizen/articles/preventing-separation-anxiety-supervised-separation/

9.) Being Restrained

Some puppies will take better to this than others. It is in fact one of the exercised on the Volhard Puppy Aptitude Test that demonstrates a puppies willful nature (or lack of).

Practice gently holding your puppy in various positions for a few moments everyday. We are not trying to scare the puppy or show dominance. We are teaching the puppy to accept restraint which will come in handy for exams, medical procedures, x-rays, etc later in life.

Gently restrain the puppy in the position of your choosing. We start puppies on their backs in between our legs as we sit on the ground with our hand hovering over their chest to prevent them from flipping over and scampering away. Some puppies will just "flop" and not care at all and are immediately relaxed from the get-go. Others will squirm and settle and yet others will try to fight you all the way. It is easiest to start with a tired puppy.

It is important that you stay clam, relaxed, and neutral. When the puppy becomes calm, relaxed, and neutral praise them calmly and give a release cue. Your puppy may not know what the release cue is right away but they will get it after a few sessions.

As your puppy starts getting use to relaxing in between your legs, offer belly rubs if your puppy likes those. This is a good thing to practice everyday and a great time to check your dog's underside for scratches, hair mats, ticks, and other debris and parasites.

In short order your puppy will enjoy these bonding and exam sessions hand you can practice in other positions such as on each side, and the "hug" position. They will also be a breath of fresh air for your veterinarian should your puppy ever need x-rays or other procedures where restraint may be necessary.

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10.) Headcollar (if you plan to use one)

While I am not a fan of headcollars (also known as head halters, halti, and gentle leaders), I understand that some people are. Most older dogs will put up a fight or shut down when a headcollar is put on. Introducing this tool to your puppy at a young age without a leash attached and with a lot of positive reinforcement, will go a long way toward the puppy accepting a headcollar with a leash attached when it is older without as big of a fight.

If you want more information on headcollars and why I am not a fan of them, Nitro K-9 has published an excellent article that matches my personal point of view (click here to read their blog and see a video).

Why I would use a headcollar - if the owner or handler was visually impaired or otherwise needed to know which direction their dog is looking in during service dog/guide work, for this we prefer the The Company Of Animals' Halti brand original head collar (not the "Opti Fit" with plastic clip). They are easier to fit and fit less snuggly to the skin. Otherwise, I feel that there are less adversive methods and tools out there to teach a dog to walk well on leash.

If there is one book we can recommend for puppies it is this one. We love this easy to follow book and the “umbilical training” –
Perfect Puppy in 7 Days: How to Start Your Puppy Off Right by Dr. Sophia Yin
There is a companion DVD available for visual learners –
​Creating the Perfect Puppy (Lecture) DVD by Dr. Sophia Yin

These are Veterinary Recommendations based on what we recommend that Veterinarian/Clinic for. Each Veterinarian/Clinic may also offer general care to all dogs, or only specialty care.

There may also be more than one Veterinarian working in these clinics. Make sure you are specifically asking for appointments with the Veterinarian recommended if there is one named!

General Care

Dr. Matt Januszewski, DVM, CVA, CVSMT
Integrative Veterinary Services
1122 S. Michigan Avenue
Howell, MI 48843
Phone: 517.292.8880
Web: IntegrativeVeterinaryServices.com

Dr. Lucretia Greear DVM, CVA
Woodhaven Animal Hospital
20376 Van Horn Road
Woodhaven, MI 48183
Phone: 734.561.3795
Web: WoodhavenAnimalHospital.com

24-Hour Emergency, Critical Care & Specialists

Michigan State University College Of Veterinary Medicine - Veterinary Medical Center
Small Animal Clinic: 736 Wilson Rd, East Lansing, MI 48824
Small Animal Phone: 517.353.5420

24-Hour Emergency & Critical Care Only

Wilson Veterinary Hospital – “West” (Wilson’s Emergency Clinic)
12000 Durham Road
Washington Township, MI 48095
Phone: 586.752.6217
Web: wilsonvethospital.com

Veterinary Ophthalmologist (Eyes)

Dr. David Ramsey, DVM, Diplomate, ACVO
The Animal Ophthalmology Center
1300 West Grand River Avenue
Williamston, MI 48895
Phone: 517.655.2777
Web: Eye-Vet.com

Reproductive Veterinarian, OFA & PennHIP Testing

Dr. William E. Schultz, DVM
Schultz Veterinary Clinic
2770 Bennett Road
Okemos, MI 48864
Phone: 517.337.4800
Web: SchultzVetClinic.com

Wilson Vet Hospital – “East” (Wilson’s General Practice Clinic)
67989 Van Dyke Road
Washington Township, MI 48095
Phone: 586.752.6217
Web: wilsonvethospital.com

OFA & PennHIP Testing Only

Dr. Lonnie L. Davis DVM, DABVP – “Wrote the book, so to speak, on how to take hip x-rays for joint evaluation” using his Precise Positioning Technique™. There is a lot of information and free articles on his websites about his Precise Positioning Technique™.
Troy Animal Hospital & Bird Clinic
34 South Weston Road
Troy, Ohio 45373
Phone: 937.500.0490
Web: troyanimalhospital.com

“Dr. Amanda”
Heritage Animal Hospital
150 Waterstradt-Commerce Drive
Dundee, MI 48131
Phone: 734.529.9177
Web: hahvet.com

Canine Physical Conditioning & Rehabilitation

Blue Waves Canine Hydro Conditioning & Spa - Owned By Yuval & Cheryl Gelbert
(Formerly Known As “Hydrodogs”)
6400 Layton Road
Fowlerville, MI 48836
Phone: 517.715.3062
No Website, Search For Them On Facebook

North Macomb Canine Rehabilitation and Conditioning (A Division Of Wilson Veterinary Hospital)
12000 Durham Road
Washington Township, MI 48095
Phone: 586.322.4454
Rehab-Specific Website: northmacombk9rehab.com
Veterinary Hospital Website: wilsonvethospital.com

“VA Service Dog Policy Changes” discusses the updated changes that took place to the VA policy for “Animals on VA Property”.

​The Department of Veterans Affairs revised its regulation regarding the presence of animals on VA property. These new regulations became effective September 16, 2015 and apply to everyone seeking access to VA property including employees, veterans, and visitors.

The following is a breakdown of questions that are answered based on Federal Register Document Number: 2015-20182 (click here to read this legal document) which discusses The Department of Veterans Affairs Final Rulings on changes made to 38 CFR Part 1 regarding "Animals on VA Property."

​No, the VA does not have any breed restrictions in the regulations.

No, the VA does not require any proof of training or certification for purposes of access.

In line with the Americans With Disabilities act, the VA has distinguished that the crime deterrent effects of an animal's presence, or the provision of emotional support or well-being, comfort, or companionship do not constitute ``work or tasks.''

Click here for Part 2 – “HELP! I was denied access with my Service Dog at the VA, what do I do?” which discusses why the VA may ask for an animal to be removed from the VA property and how to best handle the situation.

Edited by Kelly Morris, Disability Advocate.

Cotton Rounds
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Teeth

​Virbac C.E.T. Enzymatic Toothpaste Vanilla-Mint Flavor
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​Dual Headed Handle Toothbrush
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Hydrogen Peroxide Antiseptic Solution
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​Stainless Steel Double Ended Dental Tooth Scaler
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Eyes

Tomlyn Sterile Eye Wash for Dogs and Cats
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Ears

Zymox Ear Cleanser With Bio-Active Enzymes
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Pet King Brands Zymox Otic Pet Ear Treatment with Hydrocortisone
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Nails

Millers Forge Quality Stainless Steel Nail Clipper in Medium Size (these have the black closure)
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Miracle Care Kwik Stop Styptic Powder
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Dremel 8220 12-Volt Max Cordless Rotary Tool
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What bit should I use?

Natural Flea, Tick & Mosquito Pest Control Spray for Cats Dogs and Home​

Wondercide Flea and Tick and Mosquito Control Spray for Cats Dogs and Home
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Flea Comb

Safari Pet Products Flea Comb with Double Rows of Teeth
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General All-Purpose Comb

2-Inch Stainless Steel Comb
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General All-Purpose Brush

Dual Sided Pin and Bristle Brush
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General All-Purpose Shampoo

Groomers Edge Grimeinator Deep Cleaning Dog and Cat Shampoo
16 oz (32:1 Concentrate) - https://amzn.to/2x2FCVr
​1 Gallon (32:1 Concentrate) - https://amzn.to/2NAZ3Pq

Top Performance Pet Professional Mixing Bottle, ​32-Ounce Bottle
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Enzymatic Itch Relief Shampoo & Conditioning Rinse

Pet King Brands Zymox Enzymatic Itch Relief Therapy Shampoo & Conditioning Rinse Set
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If you have a medium to high maintenance breed such as a Labrador Retriever, German Shepherd Dog, Golden Retriever, Poodle, Siberian Husky, Corgi, or a doodle (poodle mix) or if you care for multiple dogs you may want to consider the following investments -

Grooming Table

Heavy Duty Stainless Steel Grooming Table with Arm
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Non-Heated Variable Speed Force Dryer

​EZ-DRY High Velocity Variable Speed Force Dryer
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Original video from instagram @ mrwegotmoves
​
TAKE YOUR DOG TO DOGGIE DAYCARE OR A BOARDING KENNEL? WATCH THIS FIRST!

Whether it be your dog trainer, dog walker, dog daycare, or boarding kennel always ask those whom you entrust with the care of your dog what they would do in the case of a dog fight, dog attack, or other worst-case scenarios.

At what point will they step in and stop dog bullying and aggression with other dogs? When do they step in when the bullying or aggression involves a human? It happens at dog parks all the time, but dog fights and dog attacks can and do happen anywhere, no matter how well facilities screen dogs. Who is screening the dogs – a dog trainer or a staff member with questionable levels of experience? How many dogs does the facility turn away or do they push to include dogs who are nervous, scared, or aggressive because it is more money for them? How do they handle dog-dog aggression? How about dog-people aggression? Do they know how to deescalate aggression? How about dogs, like the one in this video, who are overstimulated and are in prey drive?

This video is from a dog care facility in Addison, Texas. It may be painful for some to watch although no serious harm comes to handler or dog during this clip. Even though the facility markets that their handlers train the dogs in basic manners during every stay, this handler doesn’t have a clue how to handle this situation and a lot of questions are left open after watching the video.

Why wasn’t the dog removed from the group before it escalated into bullying the handler and knocking her on the ground? Now, I say bullying because what I see here is prey drive and typical bully behaviors during the beginning of the clip. Why didn’t she correct the dog in a meaningful manner or take meaningful means to physically control the dog? Is she not allowed to correct the dog because the facility touts “pack leaders” and “confident, assertive, and positive” training methods? Where are other staff members to help this handler? During the entire one-minute clip with the man filming and yelling from behind the glass window, we do not see (or hear) any other staff members.

Handler safety should always come first. Always. Followed by dog safety.

All she had to do was grab the collar and pull up, additionally she could then twist the collar if needed. She would have immediate control over the head, prevented herself from getting bit, the dog would have calmed, and she could have gotten away if she really needed to. Like I said – handler safety first.

I have seen firsthand more than my share of dog facilities with inadequate screening processes and untrained staff because they choose to hire “dog lovers” to care for the dogs… no experience required.

Some who even disregard recommendations to not allow the dog to attend daycare or board because during screening it presented a risk to other dogs or people. It results in dangerous situations for dogs and humans alike.

On the same note it applies to owners who use site/apps to find people to board and walk their dogs and the only requirement to open your “business” on these sites/apps is a love of dogs and a house.

It is so important to know who you entrust with your dog. What training has the staff had? How often to they renew or expand their training and handling techniques? What their protocol for the various situations discussed above? Ask questions! Talk to staff in charge of caring for your dog – not just the face at the front desk. Educate YOURSELF in training and handling techniques and hope you never need them.

​Dogs are dogs and things can and do happen. Empower yourself and make sure others who care for your dog are also knowledgeable and trained.

​Latest Update: September 10, 2018

We are often asked what supplements we use and recommend, especially from new puppy owners and occasionally from fellow performance event competitors. Here are our top 3 recommendations for general health and well-being. We are not paid to endorse any of these products by the manufacturers. We use them and recommend them because we believe these are quality supplements.

*Disclaimer: These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. This post and its contents are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease and is not meant to replace proper veterinary care. The suggestions in this post are based on experience, research, and what we use here at Paws Of Service Dog Training. Paws Of Service Dog Training assumes no responsibility or liability for the use of the information in this post. It is provided as a general resource and we are unable to monitor its use with all readers. If you have any concerns about your pet’s health, please contact your holistic veterinarian or other competent professional.

Product Summary From Springtime, Inc.
​
“C-Complex is a powerful vitamin-C formula, enhanced with bioflavonoids and nutrient-rich bee pollen. Excellent for immune support, for maintaining healthy joint tissue, and for maintaining a healthy inflammatory response. C-Complex excels as a free radical scavenger, a healthy immune system supporter, capillary protector, and general health supplement. Whole-food ingredients make this product a truly deluxe version of the classic vitamin C standby.”

Ingredients –

Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) - The “master vitamin,” supports a healthy immune system, a normal inflammatory response, and strengthens collagen which is the vital component of tissue, tendon, ligament, and joint health. This is a water-soluble vitamin and must be given consistently since the body will not store water soluble vitamins. It will help only when help is needed.*

Bee Pollen - The male germ cell of plants, the most nutritious part. Contains powerful whole-food antioxidants, vitamins, minerals and hormones potentiated by massive amounts of live enzyme activity. Pollen contains greater concentrations of ¬living enzymes than any other part of the plant. Scientists state that enzymes are absolutely essential for every biochemical function of the body.*

Carrot Powder – Carrots are one the world’s richest source of carotenoids, a class of compounds related to vitamin A. Some act as antioxidants or have other important functions. The best known of these is beta-carotene but there are others including alpha- and gamma-carotene, lutein, and lycopene. When foods containing beta-carotenes are consumed, the beta-carotene is converted into vitamin A in the liver. Since the liver only converts what it needs, carrot powder is a totally safe source of vitamin A.*

Citrus Bioflavonoid Complex (40%) - A biologically active antioxidant that helps optimize vitamin C absorption and utilization. Also known to support a healthy inflammatory response and cellular membrane health.*

Hesperidin (85%) - A flavonoid, usually extracted from citrus, that has been noted in studies for antioxidant effects and to support a normal inflammatory response. Hesperidin also increases circulation and offers possible brain protective effects.*

Rutin (Vitamin P) – Rutin is a flavonoid, derived primarily from buckwheat, that supports a healhty circulatory system. Rutin is also noted for its powerful antioxidant properties and it helps the body produce collagen and use vitamin C.*

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**Important Note: Give the exact or less than the recommended dose of this supplement to growing puppies under 24 months/2 years of age. The recommended dose to be given needs to be based on the growing puppy’s current weight – not their expected adult weight. This is a very strong supplement and it packs a powerful mix of nutrients. More is not better in the case of growing puppies.

Do not give this supplement in conjunction with kelp or other supplements that contain kelp.

Product Summary From Springtime, Inc.

“Longevity is the most comprehensive health supplement we have for dogs at all life stages. A powdered formula that is easily mixed into wet food, Longevity helps to nutritionally support growing puppies as well as aging seniors. The live enzymes, vitamins, and minerals in Longevity contribute to digestive, immune, and joint health, and also maintain healthy energy levels. Longevity is especially useful in supporting the body's daily detoxification process, which helps dogs stave off common environmental toxins. Some customers may prefer using chewable supplements over a powder for dry feeding programs. The Combo (Fresh Factors and Joint Health Chewables sold together) contain most of Longevity's ingredients in a chewable form.”

Ingredients – 

Bee Pollen – The male germ cell of plants, the most nutritious part. Contains powerful whole-food antioxidants, vitamins, minerals and hormones potentiated by massive amounts of live enzyme activity. Pollen contains greater concentrations of ¬living enzymes than any other part of the plant. Scientists state that enzymes are absolutely essential for every biochemical function of the body.*

Spirulina (micro-algae) –  Spirulina is a microscopic blue-green vegetable algae that supports healthy endocrine, nervous, and immune systems. Spirulina is a source of highly absorbable protein, mixed carotenoids, and other phytonutrients, B-Vitamins, GLA, and essential amino acids. Spirulina has emerged as an especially healthy whole food for humans and animals alike.*

Dessicated Beef Liver – Liver is a rich source of B vitamins, iron and trace minerals which naturally support the body’s quest for health and energy.*

Nutritional Yeast Culture – One of nature’s best vitamin foods, yeast culture nutritional and live enzyme support to the body’s digestive system.*

Chondrotin Sulfate (Bovine Cartilage Extract – minmum 90% purity) – Chondroitin sulfate is a naturally occurring molecule found in the cartilage and connective tissues of people and animals. Chondroitin is the substance that enables cartilage to provide cushion to healthy joints, and is what the body uses to make new cartilage. Chondroitin also serves a vital role in the maintenance of healthy skin/coat. Chondroitin can be taken as a supplement for maintaining healthy cartilage, joint lubrication, skin/coat, and for a normal inflammatory response.* 

Glucosamine HCL (99%) – Glucosamine is an amino sugar produced by the body for use in tendons, ligaments, cartilage, and in the fluid around the body’s joints. Glucosamine supplements help support joint health in people, dogs, and horses by giving the body the additional glucosamine it requires to maintain healthy joint tissue and fluid.*

MSM (Methyl Sulfonyl Methane 99%) – MSM (methylsulfonylmethane) is a naturally occurring sulfur compound found in plants, animals, and humans. MSM is believed to support a normal inflammatory response and is widely used as a supplement for joint health.*

Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) – The “master vitamin,” supports a healthy immune system, a normal inflammatory response, and strengthens collagen which is the vital component of tissue, tendon, ligament, and joint health. This is a water-soluble vitamin and must be given consistently since the body will not store water soluble vitamins. It will help only when help is needed.*

Citrus Bioflaonoid Complex (40%) – Citrus Bioflavonoid Complex (40%) - A biologically active antioxidant that helps optimize vitamin C absorption and utilization. Also known to support a healthy inflammatory response and cellular membrane health.*

Carrot Powder – Carrots are one the world’s richest source of carotenoids, a class of compounds related to vitamin A. Some act as antioxidants or have other important functions. The best known of these is beta-carotene but there are others including alpha- and gamma-carotene, lutein, and lycopene. When foods containing beta-carotenes are consumed, the beta-carotene is converted into vitamin A in the liver. Since the liver only converts what it needs, carrot powder is a totally safe source of vitamin A.*

Hesperidin (85%) – A flavonoid, usually extracted from citrus, that has been noted in studies for antioxidant effects and to support a normal inflammatory response. Hesperidin also increases circulation and offers possible brain protective effects.*

Kelp – Kelp is a leafy form of brown-algae seaweed that absorbs a vast variety of nutrients and minerals present in the water around it. Kelp is a commonly eaten food in many places, especially in Japan where it has been used as a food and for health benefits for thousands of years. Kelp has gained popularity in recent decades as a supplement, because it is rich in vitamins (A, B1, B2, C, D and E) as well as minerals (zinc, iodine, magnesium, iron, potassium, copper and calcium). In addition to its nutritional value, kelp is known to support healthy skin/coat, for maintaining healthy weight and blood pressure.*

Sea Salt – Genuine sea salt is composed of naturally occurring potassium, calcium, magnesium, and trace elements. This mineral-rich salt is often used as a source of electrolytes.*

Biotin – Biotin is a B-vitamin that plays a key role in the production of skin, nails, and hair. The B-complex vitamins, like biotin, help the body convert carbohydrates, fats, and protein into energy. Biotin is used by the body to maintain the health of skin, the digestive tract, and the nervous system.*

There are three supplements I use to accomplish this –

• Brunswick Sardines (In Spring Water No Salt Added)
• Grizzly Salmon Oil
• Iceland Pure Unscented Sardine and Anchovy Oil

Which one I use depends on what I have on hand and what the meal consists of. I feel it is important to rotate various fish oils and am considering trying Iceland Pure’s new product, Premier Omega fish oil. It is sardine and anchovy based but contains higher levels of EPA and DHA than the unscented sardine and anchovy oil. I try to use the whole food sardines from Brunswick as much as possible. Note: In the last month Brunswick stopped canning whole sardines (Left Photo) and now have “gourmet style fillets.” (Right Photo) 

​Our regimen for fish oil - since I read an article first featured in the December 2012 Issue of The Whole Dog Journal on dietary fats going rancid (click here for the updated article from The Whole Dog Journal), I have been using one whole can of Brunswick Sardines In Spring Water No Salt Added 1 to 2 times per week and one to two pumps of either fish oil 1 to 2 times per week.

Too much oil will coat the dog’s intestines and cause them to temporarily be unable to absorb other nutrients. Therefore, we do not use or recommend using fish or fish oils on consecutive days or more than 3 days per week.

It is important to store all fish oil and opened cans of fish in the refrigerator to prevent the fats from oxidizing (no, I don’t care if the bottle says otherwise, better safe and cold than oxidized and useless). Use bottles of fish oil within 60 days and opened cans of fish within 3-5 days. If you prefer to buy large bottles of fish oil to save money, freeze what you will not use within the 60 days.

Springtime, Inc. Bug Off Garlic Granules
https://amzn.to/2QkIfee

Springtime, Inc. Bug Off Garlic Granules (also available in a chewable tablets)

We can't live without this product! While it doesn't exactly fit "general health" this is another highly recommended product and our #1 choice to fight against fleas, ticks, mosquitoes, gnats, flies, other biting insects, and giardia! We have found this supplement to be more effective than chemical products in preventing insect infestations. If you already have an infestation talk with your veterinarian about treating your current infestation and use the garlic granules to prevent future infestations.

If you have a large number of dogs, purchase the container marketed for horses. It is the same human-grade product but in a bulk quantity.

From Springtime, Inc. - "Veterinarians versed in natural alternatives use garlic in their private practices throughout the world. While best known for its health protective properties, garlic has been used for centuries as an insect repellent. Springtime's air-dried garlic takes that benefit to a new level and is far safer than many chemical products. You may use this product with total confidence. Year round, long-term use is absolutely safe and highly recommended!"

Ingredients -

100% Air-Dried Garlic Granules – Nutrient rich and aromatic, air-dried granules are most well known as a non-toxic bug repellent, a natural detoxicant, and as a dietary sulfur. Garlic is nature's insect repellent. It is a powerful and safe way to protect your horse or dog from fleas, ticks, and other biting insects. Best of all, garlic doesn't have the dangerous and painful effects common to sprays and spot-on chemicals for flea and tick control.* (Definition from Springtime, Inc.)

Also available in chewable tablets (Ingredients: garlic, active dry yeast, dextrose, desiccated beef liver, microcrystalline cellulose, stearic acid)

Springtime, Inc. Bug Off Garlic Chewable Tablets
https://amzn.to/2QiS24i

DASUQUIN® With MSM Chewable Tablets (also available in soft chews) – Joint supplement we used in the past prior to learning about Springtime Longevity (Longevity also contains Glucosamine, Chondroitin, and MSM so there is no need to give both Longevity and Dasuquin in my opinion). Dasuquin now has DASUQUIN® Advanced Chewable Tablets which adds a few antioxidants to the ingredients.

Inflight Coat Formula – Used for keeping dogs in show coats, repairing/replacing damaged coats, and growing new coats. I can not deny the results we have experienced first hand with this coat supplement. Inflight Coat Formula (ICF) may make a dog hold it's coat through normal shedding periods. It is recommended that you take your dog off ICF and allow the coat to shed naturally, then put your dog back on the formula.

The following is the first public article about clicker training.
​
The pdf was originally downloaded from
http://clickandtreat.com/wordpress/?attachment_id=1076
and is transcribed below for easier reading and use with text-to-speech.

Dog World November 1993, Pages 49-50.

Training

Shaping behavior through reinforcement
Operant conditioning enables a trainer to correct unwanted behaviors by using a variable reward system

By Cheryl S. Smith
​
Article Transcription

Would you believe me if I told you I could explain some principles that would allow you to train a dog to do anything it is physically and mentally capable of doing? Without touching the animal and without using a collar and leash?

This was the challenging concept at a recent Karen Pryor/Gary Wilkes Dog Training Seminar.

Karen Pryor is a former dolphin trainer and author of the highly popular book “Don’t Shoot the Dog.” Gary Wilkes is a veterinary behavior specialist who focuses on control of serious behavior problems in dogs. They have presented their seminars to such diverse groups as the National Association of Dog Obedience Instructors and the American Psychological Association.

What they teach is operant conditioning. The concept sounds a little scary, utilizing terms such as successive approximation, limited hold, shaping and stimulus control. Actually, operant conditioning is a very effective way to use reinforcement, and it works on birds, cats, dogs, dolphins, humans, otters and probably any other sentient being you might care to name.

We all use positive reinforcement when we praise or give a treat. But does a dog really understand exactly what you are praising, especially when a new behavior is being taught? If you are teaching a dog to sit, for example, has she already sat down or gotten up by the time the words “Good girl” come out of your mouth? What does the dog then think is the desired behavior?

This is where a conditioned reinforcer comes in. Words are too obtuse and lengthy to pinpoint a small action, but a whistle or a clicker can be sounded at the instant of the behavior you are after. If you follow the sound with the usual treat or praise, the dog will quickly learn that the chosen sound - be it a whistle, clicker, or something else - means, “You’re doing the right thing, your reward will be coming.” Because you can now delay the reward, you can work at a distance from the dog and still let it know when it is performing as desired.

With this concept as our only new information, we played the Training Game. One of the seminar participants volunteered to be the “dolphin” (training subject), and left the room so that we could decide on a behavior that our trainer would teach the dolphin. We chose to have the dolphin go to the center of the “pool” and spin in circles. Our volunteer came back in and we began.

She moved aimlessly about the room and got a click every time she headed toward the center. On several passes she got clicked as she reached the center. But on the next pass there was no click. She was visibly startled, and backed up. When she reached the center she got a click.
Now she knew to go to the center of the room, but had no idea what to do once she got there. So she went to the center and turned slightly to look at the trainer for a clue . . . and she got a click. Now she thought she really had it. She marched off in a new direction. This got a click at the turn several times, but then no click.

Our dolphin hurried back to the center. Quarter turn to the left, click. Turn back, nothing. Again, same results. Half-turn to the left, click. It was only another few seconds before she was spinning joyously in circles.

The exercise was a revelation. No verbal information at all was given, but our trainer had the volunteer performing the behavior in 10 minutes or less. Since we are much more adept at reading the facial expressions and body language of other people than of other species, we could easily see the emotions of the volunteer. She came in intrigued and curious. The first few clicks seemed to be agreeable, but when she wasn’t sure what to do once she got to the center she became confused and mildly upset. Once she thought she had it figured out she was pleased, and when she was proved wrong, she became frustrated and almost ready to quit.

Having witnessed this, we now watched a young Labrador Retriever with no obedience training learn to down and stay. The treat was shown to the dog and moved so that the dog sat. The dog got a click and the treat. This was repeated a few times, then the treat was moved so that the dog was sitting but with her head bent down. At no time did the trainer push or pull on the dog.

The really amazing part came after the dog had gotten maybe a dozen clicks for lying down. The trainer showed her the treat then moved it back against his chest. The dog tried to follow it and was calmly told “wrong.” The dog laid down and got a click and the treat. The clicks started again - the treat was shown to the dog and taken away. We could see the dog thinking, and she slowly collapsed into the down. For that she got a click and a handful of treats.

The whole action had to be reinforced when the trainer stood up (he had been sitting on the ground), but in no time the dog would down and stay until she received the click. You could then start putting commands or signals to the behavior, and have a dog that knows the “down-stay” in one or two lessons.

Watching a person go through the procedure first helped us to see the reactions of the dog, who exhibited a very similar range of emotions, from enjoyment to confusion to frustration to joy.

Next we were introduced to negative reinforcement. Again, this is something we all use, whether it is a scolding, a scruff shake or a yank on the chain. However, the rule in operant conditioning is to give a warning before you give any correction.

A 9-month-old St. Bernard with a pulling problem was used for this demonstration. A rolled-up towel, referred to as a “bonker,” was the negative reinforcement. Our trainer begin walking around with the dog, and when the dog started to move ahead of him, he said “No,” and threw the bonker at the dog’s head. Obviously, a little rolled-up towel is not hurting a big St. Bernard, but at the third “No,” the dog backed up until he was behind the trainer.

Our two trainers explained that the negative reinforcement is used to disrupt the unwanted behavior. Once that is achieved, you replace the unwanted behavior with some desired behavior. Now the St. Bernard was clicked and treated for being in heel position, and this gigantic puppy was walking sedately at a heel in no time.

While it is fine to give a treat every time while you are shaping a behavior, if you were to continue this way, the dog would soon learn to do the least possible work to earn the treat. Once a behavior is occurring reliably, you can switch to variable reinforcement; you reward only the best performances of the behavior.

Don’t raise your sights too high all at once, or the dog may get discouraged and quit; rather, gradually demand better and better performances. Improvement usually happens quickly, and both you and the dog will be delighted with the outcome.

There was so much more to this seminar than can be covered in one article - stimulus control, behavior chains and a funny warning about compound commands (the “sit sit” syndrome). For a more in-depth discussion of these concepts, read Pryor’s book, “Don’t Shoot the Dog.” Be sure to play the Training Game with people; you’ll learn much about how this system works. As Pryor warns, this is a way to think about training, not a set of rigid rules. Each trainer will shape a behavior slightly differently, clicking at a different time and demanding higher or lower standards from the beginning.

You may even find yourself using what you’ve learned on your boss or co-worker. Primarily, I hope you will use it to better understand your dog.

I knew I wanted to train my next dog without a choke chain and without punishing him before he knew what he was doing to earn the punishment. Operant conditioning has given me a whole new language to use.

Cheryl S. Smith lives in Campbell, Calif., with one human and four canine roommates, some of whom are trained better than others.

Barn Hunt is a new and exciting sport in the United States. While only being around for a handful of years, it has absolutely exploded in popularity. Creator, Robin Nuttall, states on the official Barn Hunt Association website, "Today Barn Hunt is the fastest growing dog sport in the U.S. The popularity of the sport has exploded because the dogs and the people have so much fun. We welcome everyone, from seasoned dog sport competitors to people who have never even been to a dog show before. Our titles are recognized by both the AKC and UKC."

Barn Hunt is based on the vermin hunting that is still performed by terrier breeds today. In vermin hunting, dogs are used to chase, capture, and kill vermin that are found on farms, particularly rodents. Owners may choose to receive training in the sport with a local Barn Hunt trainer before entering their first trial while others just jump right into competing!

In the sport of Barn Hunt, dogs of any breed or mix can participate aged 6 months and older. Dogs and their humans work together to find live rats hidden safely in PVC tubes and must complete a tunnel and climb (dog climbs/jumps with all four feet onto a straw bale) under a time limit. Rats are not seen by the humans and are kept safely inside of the PVC tubes. Also on the course may be tubes containing only litter or empty tubes. How many of each type of tube depends on the class.

Owners/handlers do not know where tubes are hidden. Dog's use their keen sense of smell to locate the rats and indicate to their owner/handler where the rat is located. It is the handler's job to tell the judge that their dog has indicated a rat. If correct, the dog can continue to look for additional rats depending on the class the dog is participating in or they can complete the tunnel and climb requirements if they have not already.

When a rat is found and the handler tells the judge a rat is found correctly, one of three things can happen with the rat tube -
1. The handler can restrain the dog two feet away from the tube and a "rat wrangler" assistant inside the ring will remove the tube from the ring.
2. The handler can remove the tube and hand it to the rat wrangler or to someone outside of the ring and the tube is removed.
3. The tube can be left in place. If the dog goes back and disturbs the tube (excessively moves it, rolls it, picks it up, etc.) the judge may disqualify the dog.

The most common automatic disqualifications include but are not limited to -
1. Dog eliminates inside the ring.
2. Handler forgets to remove all items from the dog (collar, leash, etc.).
3. Handler tracks time/looks at watch.
4. Handler takes food, toys, or other reward into the ring.
5. Handler takes phone or other communication device inside of the blind (waiting area) before or into the ring during their turn.
6. Handler scruffs/grabs dog at any time inside the ring.
7. Handler lifts dog up with 3 or 4 of the dog's feet off of the ground/bale at any time after the run has started. 2 of the dog's feet must be touching the ground/bale at all times.
8. Handler touches a bale or otherwise touches the course.

The classes get increasingly difficult as each class changes in length of tunnel/number of turns in the tunnel, how many bales are on the course, how tall the bales may be stacked, the number of rat tubes, the number of litter tubes, the length of time allowed, the size of the course, the number of qualifying scores required to obtain a title, etc.

The classes of competition are as follows - 

Instinct (Optional Class):
Time Limit - 1 Minute
Tubes - 1 Rat tube, 1 Litter tube, 1 Empty tube
Tube Location - Tubes are sat out in the open and are secured.
Tunnel - No tunnel required.
Climb - No climb required.
Bales - May be stacked up to 2 high.
1 qualifying score required to earn the RATI title.

​Novice:
Time Limit - 2 Minutes
​Tubes - 1 Rat tube, 1 Litter tube, 1 Empty tube. Tubes are hidden in straw bales and dogs must indicate on the correct tube containing the rat.
Tube Location - At least one tube of any type must be elevated. All tubes may be elevated.
Tunnel - Short tunnel, no turns required.
Climb - Climb required.
Bales - Stacked up to 2 high in at least two places but no more than 3 places.
3 qualifying scores required to earn the RATN title.

​​Open:
Time Limit - 2.5 Minutes
​Tubes - 2 Rat tubes, 2 Litter tubes, 1 Empty tube. Tubes are hidden in straw bales and dogs must indicate on the correct tubes containing the rats.
Tunnel -  1 turn required, "L" shape.
Climb - Climb required.
Bales - Stacked up to 2 high in at least 3 places. 5 or more bales placed two high together counts as two places.
3 qualifying scores required to earn the RATO title.

Senior:
Time Limit - 3.5 Minutes
​Tubes - 4 Rat tubes, 3 Litter tubes, 1 Empty tube. Tubes are hidden in straw bales and dogs must indicate on the correct tubes containing the rats.
Tunnel -  2-3 turns required, shape varies. May have more than two official entrances. Course may have more than one official tunnel.
Climb - Climb required.
Bales - Stacked up to 3 high in at least one place.
3 qualifying scores required to earn the RATS title.

Master:
Time Limit - 4.5 Minutes
​Tubes - 1-5 Rat tubes, 3-7 Litter tubes, No Empty tubes. Tubes are hidden in straw bales and dogs must indicate on the correct tubes containing the rats. 8 tubes are hidden on the course, the number of rat tubes and litter tubes is chosen at random. Handler must tell the judge when the course is clear of all rats.
1 Rat tube, 7 Litter tubes
2 Rat tubes, 6 Litter tubes
3 Rat tubes, 5 Litter tubes
4 Rat tubes, 4 Litter tubes
5 Rat tubes, 3 Litter tubes
Tunnel -  2-5 turns required, shape varies. May have more than two official entrances. Course may have more than one official tunnel.
Climb - Climb required.
Bales - Stacked up to 3 high in at least two places.
5 qualifying scores under at least 2 different judges required to earn the RATM title.

Barn Hunt Championship:
After a dog has completed their RATM title, they may continue to compete in the Master class. 10 additional qualifying scores after obtaining a RATM will earn the dog a RATCH title (Barn Hunt Champion).

Barn Hunt Championship Excellent:
After a dog has completed their RATCH title, they may continue to compete in the Master class. 10 additional qualifying scores after obtaining a RATCH will earn the dog a RATCHX title (Barn Hunt Champion Excellent). For every additional 10 qualifying scores the dog will earn another title and a number will be added - RATCHX2, RATCHX3, RATCHX4....

Non-Regular Class - "Crazy 8s"
Crazy 8s is a non-regular class that does not require any previous titles and dogs are scored on a point system, not a pass/fail system. Dogs and handlers race to find as many rats as possible and to complete elements in 2 minutes.
Point System - Elements are scored for points.
+10 points for every rat found - failure to find at least one rat results in a non-qualifying run.
-20 points for an incorrect call (litter tube) - 2 incorrect calls result in a non-qualifying run.
+10 points for tunnel
-20 points for failure to complete tunnel
+10 points for climb
-20 points for failure to complete one climb
+5 Bonus points for finding 8 rats and completing a tunnel and a climb under 1 minute 45 seconds ("Bonus").
+5 Additional Bonus points for finding 8 rats and completing a tunnel and a climb under 1 minute 30 seconds ("Super Bonus").

Earning Titles - Dogs earn between 30-110 points per qualifying run in Crazy 8s. For every 500 points earned, a title is awarded.
CZ8B: Crazy 8s Bronze, 500 points accumulated.
CZ8S: Crazy 8s Silver, CZ8B plus 500 points for a total of 1000 points.
CZ8G: Crazy 8s Gold, CZ8S plus 500 points for a total of 1,500 points.
CZ8P: Crazy 8s Platinum, CZ8G plus 500 points for a total of 2000 points.
After the dog reaches the Platinum level, further titles are earned in 500 point increments. A dog with 2500 for example, is awarded Crazy 8s Platinum Bronze, or CZ8PB, and so on. Double Platinum will be abbreviated as CZ8P2.

Time Limit - 2 Minutes
​Tubes - 8 Rat tubes, 4 Litter tubes. Tubes are hidden in straw bales and dogs must indicate on the correct tubes containing the rats.
Tunnel -  2-5 turns required or point penalty. Tunnel shape varies. May have more than two official entrances. Course may have more than one official tunnel.
Climb - Climb required or point penalty.
Bales - Stacked up to 2 high in at least one place.

To check out this exciting sport by looking for trials in your area, please use the search feature on the official Barn Hunt Association website at ​http://barnhunt.com/eventcal.html to find local trials near you.

5-13-2017 - ​We gained permission from the owner to post this story, however, the owner asked us not to share any identifying information.

We recently were contacted about training a young puppy. The owner is a first time dog owner and was working with their third dog trainer at this point and was growing worried about the puppy who was becoming increasingly growly around food, treats, and chews when that behavior wasn't seen previously (the first month this puppy was in this home).

The puppy, being an unruly puppy, had a few other issues and needed general obedience and the owner wasn't seeing any results. They fired their third trainer and arranged a board and train with us at our home in Flint, Michigan.

The puppy settled in well and began playing with adult dogs and quickly learned appropriate behavior and bite inhibition during play. We switched his food with the owner's permission from a low quality kibble to a high quality kibble and saw a reduction in the excessive hyperness and need to absolutely chug down his food as fast as he could. Things were looking up.

Here is a "do not try this at home" -
The puppy received a recreational chew bone, myself knowing full well there was a potential for the resource guarding to pop up because I hadn't yet seen it with this new higher quality kibble. Suddenly, as all the best training experiences seem to happen, it appeared - growling, snarling, and snapping out of this 20 pound puppy. Just a baby, about 4 months old. Because it was a 20 pound puppy - I took the bone and gave it back, took it and gave it back, over and over in a 3 minute session. I was bit but I showed absolutely zero reaction. Very very quickly the puppy realized, biting gets me no where - this person doesn't react or move and when I am quiet I get it back.

Now for the medical part of this story. This puppy had multiple veterinary checks with the usual vaccinations. The owner also told us that the veterinarian performed what the owner described as a rectal exam. The owner verified these things as well as provided a signature that there was no evidence of internal or external parasites that we require from all owners. We are the fourth trainer for this puppy because the others weren't achieving results or weren't otherwise knowledgeable or suitable for various reasons.

Less than a week into his board and train there it was. A dead adult roundworm in his stool.

The puppy (and everyone else in our home) was immediately placed on a worming protocol with fenbendazole (brand names of Safe-Guard and Panacur)*** if they weren't already on a worming medication that included roundworm treatment.
***Consult your veterinarian before administering any worming treatments.

Today is day 4 of treatment and I saw the true severity of this infestation.

Being a first time dog owner, the owner had no idea and took everyone's advice. The veterinarian told the owner that this puppy was free of internal and external parasites. Of the three previous trainers the owner talked to one trainer about health care. The owner was told by that one trainer that the puppy was too young to worry about worming/heartworm medications yet.

I watched the puppy struggle today to pass the shear load of roundworms. 8-10 adult worms in a single segment of stool (beware: picture at the end of this article) and the puppy had passed 5 of these segments in a single potty break this afternoon.

Here is the moral of this story - DO NOT TAKE A NEGATIVE FECAL EXAM OR RECTAL EXAM AS AN "ALL CLEAR" FOR DOGS NO MATTER THEIR AGE.

Even I have been told that my dogs were "negative" for internal parasites only to see them come out in stool after our regular scheduled worming. (Note: We worm our personal dogs at least every 6 months because we attend dog shows regularly).

If you attend a place such as a doggie daycare or if you regularly attend areas that are of high-traffic to dogs make sure you have a regular schedule in place even if they have a "negative fecal exam requirement." Time and time again I have seen dogs with "negative" fecal exams turn out to have parasites.

The most common monthly heartworm medications will cover roundworms and a few other types of worms. Make sure you know exactly what the medications you give your dog(s) covers. Most do NOT cover tapeworms so make sure you have a seperate worming protocol for tapeworms. They also do not cover microscopic parasites such as Giardia - you can not see Giardia with your naked eye and it is very commonly missed by veterinarians. Ask your veterinarian if you have any questions about a regular worming protocol.

Turns out, this poor puppy had never been properly wormed in its entire life. The veterinarian and other dog (training) professionals should have known better and known basic dog health and worming protocols. Seek medical assistance if you visually see worms in stool. I am not going to give medical advice or our worming protocol in this article.

I can't help but think that as the parasite load of this puppy grew, his resource guarding of food sources also grew because the puppy was being increasingly robbed of nutrients to grow by all of these adult roundworms. Without proper guidance from an experienced trainer this would have turned into a major issue in short order with children in the home. With this medical issue taken care of and some additional training, I expect to see the full recovery of this guarding behavior by the end of the board and train program as well as some weight gain for this young pup.

I do not blame the first time dog owner for this at all. They provided us with all the "right" information and veterinary forms - multiple veterinary exams, vaccinations, verification that they had not seen any evidence of internal or external parasites, etc. prior to beginning our board and train program.

Negative fecals will never be a guarantee. Consult with your veterinarian about a regular worming protocol for your dog(s).

​WARNING: PHOTO BELOW

Five Ways To Train NEW Behaviors
 
Below outlines five ways to train NEW behaviors when working with dogs. When possible, teach a NEW behavior using positive reinforcement (food, toy, or other reward the dog enjoys) before moving on to other methods. This is not covering using techniques to proof and make behaviors the dog already knows and understands faster or more reliable.
 
Positive Reinforcement – Correct behaviors are rewarded with food, a toy, or other reward the dog enjoys.
 
Capturing – Even the most hyper puppy will eventually lie down. Reward when that behavior happens. Dogs who bark will eventually be quiet, reward the quiet. Capturing is also useful for hard to create behaviors such as full body shakes, sneezes, teaching to potty on command, etc. but a poor choice for things your dog rarely does or doesn’t do naturally at all.
 
Luring – Luring involves using a treat or trained target stick to move the dog’s head to get a behavior you want. Nose goes up, rear goes down and you get a sit. Luring is great for puppies and novice dogs. Luring also creates hand signals (treat in the right hand, hand moves up – take the treat away, move hand up and you have a signal for sit). The problem with luring is when the treat hangs around too long – “My dog only does it if I have a treat!” This is where many big box stores fail and create unreliable behaviors when the treats go away and the dog decides that treat isn’t worth coming back for when he rather chase the squirrel.
 
Shaping – This is where a behavior is broken into the tiniest portions. While this method takes extra time, it creates the strongest behaviors and requires the dog to think. It can also build confidence in a dog when the dog figures it out and gets it right. You can get behaviors you couldn’t possibly get any other way.
 
These three are rarely used alone. You may use different methods for the same behavior or use different methods depending on the behavior.
 
A mix of pressure (negative reinforcement) and positive reinforcement “balanced training” –
 
When we talk about pressure (negative reinforcement) we are using a stimulus the dog finds annoying or unpleasant (it does not need to be painful!). We use the annoying or unpleasant stimulus (such as the pull of a collar or stim) and when the dog performs the correct behavior the dog is rewarded with food, a toy, or other reward the dog finds pleasant.
 
Example 1:The trainer uses a pressure point in-between the dog’s shoulders to create an unpleasant feeling, the dog lays down, the trainer immediately removes their hand off the dog and the unpleasant feeling goes away (negative reinforcement) and the dog is rewarded (positive reinforcement). A confident dog should be none the worse for wear and should be willing and happy to participate for positive reinforcement.
 
Example 2: Modeling with positive reinforcement can be another example of this. Modeling is when we move the dog into position as someone might model clay. Most people don’t think of modeling as negative reinforcement but on simple terms it is. Trainer places their hand on the dog’s rump and pushes down and at the same time pulls up on the collar, the dog sits, the trainer removes the tension and rewards the dog with positive reinforcement.
 
Negative Reinforcement is in and of itself reinforcing to the dog because once it understands what the behavior is it learns that the faster it performs the behavior the faster the annoying or unpleasant feeling goes away thus creating a dog that wants to perform a behavior and fast. Rewarding with food after is only adding more of a positive association.
 
Pressure (Negative Reinforcement) Only –
 
This is everything described above exception of rewarding with food or other positive reinforcement. This method stops at the pressure being removed.
 
Let’s look at an example above –
 
The trainer uses a pressure point in-between the dog’s shoulders to create an unpleasant feeling, the dog lays down, the trainer immediately removes their hand off the dog and the unpleasant feeling goes away (negative reinforcement). We repeat this annoying sensation until only the slightest feeling of a hand causes the dog to down with no actual pressure involved.
 
The downside to this is this is often a stressful way to teach a dog a new behavior and will create unhappy dogs when taken too far. Use this only as an absolute last resort. Some take this over the line to the point of causing pain and/or panic. That is animal abuse in my opinion and we must be very careful not to cross that line for a behavior that is not a life or death situation.
 
Let’s look at a scenario teaching with only pressure where someone crosses the line. The trainer has a dog that doesn’t know how to down. It knows no hand signal or verbal cue. The trainer puts a corrective collar on the dog with a leash and steps on the leash near the collar dragging the dogs head to the ground. The dog may panic but eventually lays down. The trainer lets up off the leash, the dog gets up. The trainer does this again and again until the dog drops to the ground at the slightest movement toward the leash.
 
Yes, the dog is downing consistently – but was it worth it? It is up to your personal ethics to decide – no one else can decide where you draw your line.

​One of the most disturbing, not to mention disgusting, habits a dog may have is poop eating. Scientifically known as coprophagia, it is very common issue in dog behavior and is one that has owners running for answers. Before we can treat it, we need to know possible causes and to rule out any medical issues.

It Is Instinctual

​Just like stalking prey or circling before lying down your dog may have this remnant instinct still lurking under their skin. Occasionally, we see dogs that are of lower ranking status eat the stool of higher ranking pack members.

​In other situations, such as when a mother has young puppies, the mother will clean her puppies to stimulate them to “go” and then will proceed to ingest any excrement. This keeps her puppies and den clean and prevents predators from finding the babies based on excrement scent.

With wild dogs and other scavengers, they will frequently consume whatever stool they come across to gain any leftover nutrients and/or enzymes that are found in the stool.

Doggy See, Doggy Eat Doo

​Dogs are amazing at learning things from other dogs. Litters of puppies who have had the chance to watch other puppies or adult dogs completing a task are 50% faster at figuring out how to complete the same task when it was their turn. Same thing happens with other behaviors such as barking, dogs who are escape artists, and yes, poop eating. Puppies grow up seeing mom eat the stool and when they start exploring (mainly with their mouths of course) they may pick up the habit. Most of the time this is eliminated by the time the puppy is 8 weeks old and ready to leave mom.

Dogs who live in a multidog household or who frequent places with multiple dogs (dog parks, daycares, boarding facilities, etc) are more likely to eat poop. In a 2012 study, researchers led by Dr. Benjamin Hart, from the University of California, Davis, found that 20% of dogs in single dog households ate poop while 33% of dogs who lived in households of three or more dogs ate poop.

​Dogs also learn from you. If you punish your dog by rubbing his nose in his poop (which is a terrible way to deal with the issue and can cause other problems) or if your dog sees you disposing of his poop, he may try to “dispose of the evidence” or clean up after himself.

​Diet

Your dog’s digestive system has various enzymes to break down food. Dogs that are on processed (kibble, canned, or dehydrated) diets with increased carbohydrates and plant proteins seem to pick up the habit of eating poop more frequently than dogs on low/no carbohydrate, high animal protein diets. Some veterinary nutritionists have suggested that eating stool helps replenish enzymes and recycles waste.

​Overfed dogs and dogs on diets with carbohydrates and plant proteins leave wasted nutrients behind and the dog (or other dogs who have access) may feel inclined to eat the stool with excess nutrients. By improving your dog’s diet, you can decrease or eliminate the odds that your dog will eat or continue to eat stool (more on this in part 2).

Attention

​In many cases, a dog’s behavior is directly related to the owner’s behavior. Attention is attention, whether it is good or bad, and even bad attention can be reinforcing the dog to continue the behavior. Dogs that are bored, lonely, anxious, or stressed may pick up the habit simply out of not having a better outlet or to keep their living area clean just like their mother would have.

​Nutrient or Enzyme Deficiency

​A lack of various B vitamins is often a cited cause for dogs who consume stool. Brewer’s yeast, a multivitamin, or both, can help. Brewer’s yeast is a well-known nutritional supplement known for being packed with chromium and B vitamins as well as helping aid in digestion. There are many brands of brewer’s yeast and multivitamins available at pet specialty stores. Brewer’s yeast should not be given to dogs with any sensitivities to grains.

​Other Medical Causes

​Dogs with an enzyme or nutrient deficiency, parasites, pancreatitis, or other illness are likely to eat stool. All coprophagic dogs should be examined by a veterinarian. There is little scientific knowledge or studies on coprophagia itself but there are both medical and behavioral causes. We urge you to rule out any medical causes with a veterinarian before setting out on any dietary changes.
 
Here are a few of the most common medical conditions that can be linked to coprophagia –

• Pancreatitis: Inflammation of the pancreas that can be triggered by several factors. Infections, metabolic disorders, medications, obesity are just a handful of possible causes of pancreatitis.
• Exocrine Pancreatic Insufficiency: EPI is the result of a malfunctioning pancreas that is not creating enough digestive enzymes.
• Intestinal Infections & Parasites: Infections can happen for any number of reasons, but parasites are a common cause of intestinal stress and infection.
• Malabsorptive Syndromes: The exact cause of this disorder is unknown, but it may be related to allergies to grains (corn, wheat, soy, etc).

 
Dogs who have lived in a home with an ill dog are more likely to begin eating stool. Common theories include that the ill dog is not absorbing all nutrients and thus is leaving behind nutrient rich stool as well as that, from a survival standpoint, cleaning up behind the sick dog will decrease the likelihood of other predators from trying to take advantage of a disabled member of the pack.

In Part 2, available soon, we discuss how to treat this behavior.

It’s not cute when your pet’s life could be in danger or is in danger. It is worse when it is the owner's fault which is more times the case than when it isn’t. I have seen more times than I care to think about owners posting photos or stories about their animals online. The following are just handful of real situations that have come across my facebook in the last 48 hours. Names have been changed to protect the guilty - guilty owners that is.

• “Max ate a hole in my drywall! Look at his guilty face!”
• “RIP my poor furbaby Pixi! She ran out into the road and got hit by a car, she was only one and a half years old.”
• “Diesel broke out of his crate again and ate my sofa!”
• “Lolly dug out under the fence and ran away, please pray for her safe return. She has a collar but no tags.”
• “Penny was bit at the dog park today! Now we are at the emergency vet!”

The list could go on and on! None of these scenarios include what happens when owners don't take their animals to the vet when they begin showing signs of illness or fail to keep them on prescribed medications.

​The worst part? Accidents happen - but most, if not all, of these scenarios can be prevented using three things – Supervision, Management, Training.

Supervision – Watch your dog at all times and/or keep a leash on the dog – freedom is earned it is not a privilege. Some may think this is harsh but would you let your 5 year old run around unsupervised? Some do and what do we get – videos of kids who have smeared their brother head to toe in peanut butter, markers and paint all over the walls and furniture, flour spread ceiling to floor in the entire house, and the list goes on. All I can think is “Where were the parents?” and the same thing goes for dogs. Watch your dog at all times.

There is a whole idea surrounding keeping your dog on leash 24/7 - it's called umbilical training and it is a great way to bond and speed up obedience training. If you are paying attention to your dog, you can prevent and stop so many accidents from happening! While you are at it – reward your dog when they are doing a good behavior. 

Management - anything we do to manage the dog’s behavior. Keeping it on a leash, keeping it in a crate or kennel, having the puppy in an x-pen (exercise pen), providing enough structured exercise, etc.

Training - Training is anything we teach the dog to do – or not to do.

I am going to go through these situations and apply these three things. Supervision is the same for everything – PAY ATTENTION AND WATCH YOUR DOG!

Many comments to these types of posts are sympathetic, "praying for your furbaby" or "awe so sad". No one ever calls out the owner on their negligence and irresponsibility in these situations. I use to feel bad and have sympathy but I have become a bit cynical - DOGS ARE NEEDLESSLY DYING. These animals are the owner's responsibility. Not supervising and managing them for their own safety, not to mention the safety of others, is negligent and inexcusable and can cost your dog its life.

Step up and be a responsible dog owner. Seek help with training if you need it.

​Breaking The Cycle

For motion sickness in puppies and dogs administer Dramamine as described above and go for short rides in the car. If this has solved the motion sickness start taking longer and longer rides. Keep giving the medication for at least 6 months. Make the car a fun happy place – provide the dog with a favorite ball, chew toy, or a frozen Kong stuffed with pumpkin. After 6 months try a ride without the medication and see if the motion sickness returns. Puppies will frequently grow out of motion sickness with age.

What we don’t want is for the puppy or dog to develop a psychological connection between being in the car and feeling sick – this is when it becomes a psychological and behavioral issue not a medical issue. We need to break the cycle as soon as possible and prevent it from returning. This is why we recommend keeping up with the medication for 6 months even though the dog may seem better.

Conclusion

It is important to not let yourself avoid taking your dog places - avoiding the problem is not fixing it and not taking your dog out and about can create many different behavioral and social issues in your dog. I have lived with a puppy whose motion sickness would manifest itself as vomiting. It would have been easier to not take him anywhere but I had big plans for him. For your dog’s sake and your sanity, take the time to treat motion sickness as soon as possible and reap the benefits for the life of your dog. My guy is almost two years old and I do not need to give him medication and he no longer has any symptoms of motion sickness. We frequently take long trips to compete in dog competitions.

Drive Safely!

Paws Of Service Dog Training’s
Service Dog Candidate Quick Tips
 
This is written for puppies and young dogs that have been chosen as a candidate for future Service Dog work. We cannot possibly include everything so ask us if you have any questions!
 
DIET & EXERCISE

• Feed a good food – Prey Model Raw or a high-quality grain-free kibble. Good food is not a cost you want to skimp on especially for a growing puppy 2 years or younger!
• Keep your puppy at a good weight - overweight puppies are at risk of bone and cartilage damage. If you aren’t sure – ask! You should be able to feel but not see the ribs on the puppy. A little thin is better than a little fat.
• Play with the puppy and let the puppy run and play at its will but do not force the puppy to go on jogs or runs and try to prevent the puppy from jumping to avoid bone and cartilage injuries!

 
Click here to check out our Service Dog Training Page

CRATE TRAINING & HOUSEBREAKING

• Begin crate training and housebreaking your puppy as soon as you get it. The goal is for the puppy to be comfortable in its crate – with and without you in the room. One special thing about housebreaking a Service Dog candidate that you might not think to do is to create a command for the dog to go potty – this will come in handy later. We use “Go Park” for our potty command but you can use whatever words you like.
• Let the dog potty on as many different surfaces in as many different places as possible – grass, wood chips, artificial turf, rocks of various sizes, and cement. People don’t think about cement but when you need to go shopping and all you see is a sea of cement parking lot this will come in handy!

 
SOCIALIZING YOUR DOG

• As hard as this is - limit interaction between the puppy and other members of the family. As much as you are tempted to let your significant other to play with the puppy or to help potty train it and let the kids play with the puppy it is important to realize that this puppy is not a family pet. It will have an important job to do and needs to bond with the disabled handler.
• Socialize your dog to as many things and people as possible. Let me make an important distinction here – the goal is for the dog to be comfortable and relaxed around as many people and things as possible. Do not force the puppy to interact with people and things. People (and other dogs) need to become like objects in the environment not a source of fun or food unless a specific situation requires it (usually fear). There are many “socialization lists” available online with many objects and situations to socialize your puppy to – the more you can complete at least once by 16 weeks of age the better.
• You may be tempted to take the dog with you to non-pet friendly places under the idea that it will be a Service Dog – DON’T. It is ILLEGAL in the State Of Michigan to take a dog into a non-pet friendly place if you are not a Service Dog Trainer working for a business punishable by fines and/or jail time.
• If your dog is housebroken, you may ask businesses that do not sell food for written permission from a manager to visit/train in their store. Keep this written permission on you every single time you visit that store in case an employee asks or a customer harasses you. Find as many pet friendly venues as possible but always remember to bring poo bags and cleanup supplies in case of an accident – it can and will happen even to older working Service Dogs so please be prepared.

 
THE FIRST OBEDIENCE COMMANDS

• DO NOT TEACH YOUR DOG TO SIT!
• The first obedience commands to work on are –
  • Potty on command
  • Down (lay down)
  • Stand
  • Come
  • Wait
  • Let’s Go (informal heeling – discuss with us where you should encourage your dog to walk beside you this may vary from person to person depending on the disability)
  • Off (get your paws off of a person or object)

 
AN EXERCISE IN PATIENCE

• Investing in a short non-chewable leash or tie-down is very handy for teaching your puppy to lie calmly at your feet. Start at home and then as the puppy gets older this makes transitioning this behavior to public easier.

 
NEUTERING & VACCINATIONS

• Across the working dog community, it is common practice to keep dogs intact as long as possible with the recommendations being keeping the dog intact until their 2nd birthday at a minimum. The reason for this is that this allows the dog to retain their important growth hormones and allows their bodies to grow to the appropriate height and allows for proper bone growth. This is extremely important in any dog that will being performing physical tasks – brace work, balance work, protection and police dogs, search and rescue dogs, hunting dogs, performance dogs, etc.
• There is one exception that overrides keeping a dog intact until at least its second birthday – Cryptorchidism – males with this condition should be neutered at one year of age unless recommended otherwise by a veterinarian experienced with Cryptorchidism.
• If you cannot keep your dog intact until two years of age, please consider hormone-saving procedures such as tubal ligations and vasectomies.
• We recommend Dr. Jean Dodd’s Minimal Vaccination Protocol.
  • http://drjeandoddspethealthresource.tumblr.com/post/109120251541/dodds-vaccine-protocol-2015#.VnOcqPkrLIU
    • 9-10 Weeks Old: Distemper + Parvovirus, MLV (Modified Live Vaccine)
    • 14-16 Weeks: Same as above
    • 20 Weeks or Older (if allowable by law): Rabies
    • 1 Year: Distemper + Parvovirus, MLV (optional = titer)
    • 1 Year after the initial dose: Rabies, killed 3-year product (give 3-4 weeks apart from distemper/parvovirus booster)

If there is one book we can recommend for puppies it is this one. We love this easy to follow book and the “umbilical training” –
Perfect Puppy in 7 Days: How to Start Your Puppy Off Right by Dr. Sophia Yin
There is a companion DVD available for visual learners –
​Creating the Perfect Puppy (Lecture) DVD by Dr. Sophia Yin

My goal of the article is not to persuade anyone for or against prong collars (also known as pinch collars or training collars) but rather my goal is to write an article with public photos to show the proper and safest way to use one.
It is all about SAFETY.

A study on prong collars was done in Germany with 100 dogs. Half used choke and half used prong collars. The dogs were studied for their entire lives and when they died, autopsies were performed. Of the 50 who had chokes, 48 had injuries to the neck, trachea or back. Two of those were determined to be genetic. The other 46 were caused by trauma. Of the 50 who had prongs, two had injuries in the neck area; one was determined to be genetic and one was caused by trauma.

Prong collars are designed to correct with even pressure all the way around the dog's neck to protect the trachea and other sensitive areas.

If you are in a hurry please scroll down to "Quick Release and Backup Collars".

​History – Prong collars were created by a veterinarian whose goal was to create a training collar that is safer to use then a choke / slip chain. In 1942, Hans Tossutti wrote his book Companion Dog Training where he advocates for the prong collar when he writes the following about prong collars - "a well-thought-out, cruelty-preventing device which at the same time assists in systematic training," but felt that the choke collar, "though quite innocuous in appearance, is an instrument of torture in the hands of the beginner because of its unlimited choke."

​Legality – Prong collars are legal in the United States, however, it is illegal in some states to use the prong collar to tether a dog. You should NEVER tether a dog or leave a dog unattended with a prong collar on.

Myths – There are many myths surrounding prong collars and an article written by K9 Pro, the K9 Professionals covers many of the myths.

​Bust the Myths About Prong Collars!
​
1)      They look like a medieval torture device!
Prong collars do look scary but don’t judge a book by its cover (or in this case, a tool by its appearance!). The prongs are completely blunt and if you put one on yourself, you’ll soon discover they are no where near as “barbaric” as you may first assume. 
 
2)      They only work because they cause pain
Actually, the reality is quite the opposite – prong collars provide an effective correction without excessive effort or frustration from the handler. The prongs are spaced evenly around the dog’s neck, which means they cause no damage and are more effective than check chains because they apply pressure points to the skin, not muscle. This means that it takes far less force or pressure to apply an effective correction than it does with any other corrective tool.
 
3)      The prongs are sharp and puncture/pierce the dog’s skin
One thing you’ll notice straight away when you handle a prong collar is that the prongs are completely blunt and most definitely do not puncture or pierce the dog’s skin! Some anti-prong collar advocates show pictures of marks around the dog’s neck that look like puncture wounds, this occurs if a collar is left on the dog and never taken off as it could eventually cause irritation that in turn causes infection, this is caused pressure necrosis and can happen even with flat collars or check chains that are left on for a long period of time (which is neglect!) allowing the collar to imbed in the dog’s skin.
 
4)      People sharpen the prongs!
This is common propaganda often bought up when people are told or shown how blunt the prongs on the collar actually are. We’ve never seen any evidence that people sharpen the prongs, but if they did so, it would be clear abuse and nothing to do with the tool itself, but the person using it as a tool for abuse. Even if it were true, do you think banning prong collars would stop the people that would sharpen them from using and abusing them?
 
 5)      The dogs aren’t learning anything and it shuts them down
Prongs very commonly used in training for high end sports, such as Schutzhund, IPO, Mondio ring, KNPV etc. To compete in such sports you need loads of drive, shut down dogs would not even make the start peg. Prongs do not take drive out of a dog.
 
6)      Science proves that dogs learn better with positive reinforcement, tools like prong collars are unnecessary!
Dogs do learn better with positive reinforcement, prongs are a tool to help add consequence to already learned but undesirable habits. When a dog would escalate to a high state of arousal, offering food, toys and praise is most times completely ineffective, so it becomes impossible to get them into the learning zone. Prong collars can help the handler control the dog’s level of arousal so the dog can stay in the learning zone and reward their dog.
 
7)      There are kinder tools like head collars
We don’t want to focus on comparing prongs to other tools, but as this is a tool that is often given as a ‘gentler’ and ‘kinder’ alternative to prong collars we wanted to address some myths that are commonly put forward about head collars in comparison to prongs.
 
This is a common argument put forward by anti-prong collar advocates, which we always find quite hypocritical. Head collars are an aversive tool just like any other correctional aid, the plain and simple fact is that if they weren’t aversive they wouldn’t work. Head collars were designed based off the head halters used to lead horses, despite the fact that the placement of nerves in a dog’s face differs hugely to horses. The pressure applied to the face of a dog wearing a head collar can be quite painful and stressful to the dog, this is why you often see dogs have an extreme reaction when a head collar is fitted – clawing at their face, rolling on the ground, trying anything to get the head collar off.
 
Head collar advocates will tell you that dogs need to be desensitized to the head collar – this can take weeks to achieve this and have a dog who will happily have the head collar put on, and even then some dogs still hate wearing them.
 
There is no doubt that head collars ARE an aversive tool. Head collars work when the dog pulls out, the pressure on the face plus the strain on the dogs neck muscles trying to keep its head facing forward all add up to pain, stress and loss of drive, therefore giving you a dog that doesn't pull. It’s quite ironic, then, that the people who oppose the use of prong collars quite often recommend head collars instead.
 
It’s important to note that we are not interested in banning head collars or any other training tool, we think that banning any tool is a slippery slope and does not address the important issues – banning a tool is not the answer, proper education on how, why and when to use them is!
 
8)      Prong collars don’t train or teach dogs anything, and they go back to pulling or displaying bad behavior as soon as you take them off.
First let me say that prong collars don’t teach dogs to do anything, neither does food nor any reward or aversive. The handler / trainer teaches the dog and uses re enforcers to steer the dog away from undesirable traits and toward desirable ones.
 
Even if it was the case that dogs went back to pulling, it wouldn’t be a flaw in the tool but a flaw in the training, but let’s say for a moment that is true, some people have all but given up on their dogs, believing the dog cannot just be trained or stopped, if a prong collar gives that person even a 1% glimmer of hope, that dog can live on.
 
 9)      People who use prong collars can abuse their dogs
If you replace “prong collar” in the above sentence with “check chain, halter, flat collar, clicker” the same can apply.
 
People who use prong collars properly do not cause pain to their dogs and most importantly, do not abuse their dogs. Any tool can be use to abuse a dog, including flat collars and leashes! We’ve never seen a prong collar abuse a dog or cause it pain without there being an idiot on the end of the leash willing and ready to abuse their dogs.
 
Abuse is the user, not the tool!
 
 10)    They should only be used as a last resort
The problem with this approach is that you should be using a tool that is most appropriate for the dog and handler rather than going through a variety of tools and methods that don’t work, only for the dog to learn that if he persists, he can win. Every time you apply a different tool or method without success the dog becomes that much more resistant to training. It is by far better to address the problem quickly, with whatever tool will be the most effective and appropriate for the dog and handler using it.
 
11)   Prong collars are just to give harder more painful corrections.
They can be used this way for sure, again so can any tool, but they have a greater power. When Steve from K9 Pro works with a client who has an out of control dog and it is deemed in that circumstance that a correction collar is needed, many times a prong is chosen over a check chain or martingale collar simply because it allows the user to deliver an emotionless correction from a less frustrated handler that is no longer struggling with their dog.
 
12)   Prong collars cause harm!
Quite simply, prove it! There is no evidence anywhere to say that they cause harm at all. Hearsay, pictures of complacent people who leave collars on their dogs indefinitely and rumors of people sharpening prongs isn’t proof.
 
Written by K9 Pro, the K9 Professionals

​The picture (above left) frequently circulates anti-prong and 100% positive reinforcement circles as to why “all prong collars are dangerous”. Let me be clear – this does not happen in one use, this doesn’t even happen overnight. This is a dog who was likely tethered with the prong collar or the collar was left on the dog for weeks to grow into the skin. The same thing can happen with your everyday flat collar (above middle) or horse "head halter" style collar also marketed as "Gentle Leaders" (horse halter above right, dog halter bottom left) and is undoubtedly cruel animal abuse! The bottom center and right photos were harnesses that anti-prong people like to use instead. Abuse is abuse! 

Quick Release and Backup Collars -

​Sizing The Links – Now that we have covered the legalities, myths, and the dangers of quick release collars - if you are going to use a prong collar here is what you need to know.

Links are sized to the dog’s hair length not the dog’s weight - you can buy extra links or a second collar to get enough links to fit your dogs neck size.

Micro (1.6mm links) – these are special-order prong collars that are for dogs under 15 pounds with short to medium hair. If the dog has long or thick fluffy hair a small may fit better.

Small (2.25mm links) – These will work for most dogs 10-90 pounds with a typical coat of hair. If the dog has a large amount of thick fluffy hair such as – Old English Sheepdog, Collie, Long Coat Malamute, Poodle / “doodles” who are not trimmed, corded breeds, etc. – look into medium or large links

Medium (3.0mm links) / Large (3.4mm links) – These are for dogs with large amounts of thick fluffy hair such as – Old English Sheepdog, Collie, Long Coat Malamute, Poodle / “doodles” who are not trimmed, corded breeds, etc. If your dog is over 80 pounds and is a mastiff or bully breed who is exceptionally strong a Medium may be for you but save the Large for those dogs with the long thick and fluffy coats.

X-Large (3.9mm and larger links) – These are excessive status symbols – I have never seen a need for a collar so large.

​Fitting The Collar – The collar should fit high under the ears and snuggly under the jaw. If the collar is too loose or the links are an incorrect size this is when damage can be caused. If you have any questions – ASK before using.

Dead Rings & Live Rings - So what are "dead rings" and what are "live rings"'?

The dead ring is the metal circle ring that does not spin (this does not apply to micro prongs) while the live ring is the "D" shaped ring that spins and prevents the leash from tangling.

For the majority of people who are going to be using a prong collar they are going to use a prong with the leash attached to the LIVE RING ONLY. There are some instances when one might choose to attach the leash to the live ring and the dead ring at the same time (we are assuming everything else is fitted properly and snug at this point).

The main reason is to reduce the action on the collar (the action is the range of movement of the chain - depending on the fit of the collar this can vary).
Why would someone need to reduce the action?
1. Due to the dog's response, less action is beneficial (this is not typical).
2. The dog is trained and the handler wishes to wean the dog off of the use of the prong collar.
3. Certain circumstances in which a working dog is being trained (I am not going to go into these circumstances here) where the handler needs more control than a flat collar provides but less action than the live ring only.

Note: Remember if both rings are used the prong essentially turns into a type of flat collar and will create uneven pressure just as a flat collar will. Both rings should not be used simultaneously for the majority of dogs in training, especially if they have not yet learned to walk on a loose leash.

​Pop & Release – A collar correction should never last longer than a split second. “Pop” the collar is tight for a split second then the leash immediately goes slack for the “Release.” Do not allow the leash to go tight for more than a second.

Leash Pressure Work - Speak with a knowledgeable trainer before attempting this training with your dog.

 Written On Saturday, October 3, 2015. Updated Thursday, March 24, 2022.

All Photo Credits Go To Doggie Drawings By Lili Chin

​5 Tips For Immediately Improving Your Dog's Behavior

1. Increase Structured Exercise - Meandering about the backyard doesn't use a dog's brain and does not push him to vigorously exercise in a structured way. Try regular walks or runs with your dog. Remember: A Tired Dog Is A Good Dog.

2. Increase Supervision - Tired of your dog doing things behind your back? The solution is simple - increase supervision and consider tethering (otherwise known as umbilical training). Tethering helps you teach the dog what is right and wrong immediately because he is no more than 6 feet away from you at any given time. When the dog is not tethered to you, crate him with appropriate toys.

3. Decrease Boredom - Provide toys such as frozen stuffed Kongs (the red snowman shaped toys), puzzles, bully sticks, etc to prevent boredom.

4. Learn To Earn & Nothing In Life Is Free (NILF) - Make your dog work for his food. You mean more to him when all good things come from you. Bonus - training and good behavior will come quickly when his attention is on you and your attention is on rewarding good behaviors.

5. Work On Engagement With Your Dog - Engagement is structured focus in various environments. Concentrated focus is often rewarded with toy play and bonding.

All Photo Credits Go To Doggie Drawings By Lili Chin

​ What You Need To Know About Operant Conditioning & How It Applies To Dog Training

Operant Conditioning (OC) is the basis of almost everything we do in dog training. It is when a dog learns that it can affect its environment through cause and effect. OC is made up of four parts –

                Positive Reinforcement (+R)

                Negative Reinforcement (-R)

                Positive Punishment (+P)

                Negative Punishment (-P)

Positive Reinforcement INCREASES Behavior

Positive Reinforcement means you are giving the dog something it likes – food, toys, affection, attention, etc. and in the future the behavior is likely to increase. This can be ANY behavior – good or bad – so one must be careful that they are not reinforcing behaviors that will be undesirable in the future.

Example 1 :
The dog sits on command and it is positively reinforced when you give it a piece of food. The dog will be more likely to perform this behavior in the future. This is the basics of “All Positive Training” & “Clicker Training” (i.e. Big Box Store Training) they stop here and go no further.

Example 2 :
Your cute 4 month old puppy jumps on you and you reach down and pet it and talk to it. You have (probably unknowingly) positively reinforced your puppy for jumping on you by rewarding it with what it desired – attention/affection. Fast forward 5 months and now you have a large 9 month old adolescent with a “behavior problem”. This is when positive reinforcement can go wrong if you are unaware of what you are doing.

Pros:
Positive Reinforcement training works on virtually every dog.
Creates happy working dogs.

Cons:
Behaviors may be unreliable in the event there is no reinforcement visible. i.e. “He only behaves when I’m holding a cookie.”

Negative Reinforcement INCREASES Behavior

Negative Reinforcement means that you take away something that the dog experiences as unpleasant and the result is that the behavior will increase in the future.

Example 1 :
You are teaching your dog to enjoy having his paws held in preparation for nail trims. You hold your dog’s paw firmly and he struggles to get away for 15 seconds. When he calms down and his paw is still for 2 seconds you release his paw. You are taking away the unpleasant sensation of having his paw held as soon as he gives you the behavior you want to increase – allowing you to hold his paw while he is calm. Skip forward a few training sessions and before you know it he now only struggles for 5 seconds and he allows you to hold his paw for 5 seconds – he has figured it out, the faster he calms down and lets you hold his paw the sooner you will let go. The goal is that eventually the dog will begin enjoying these “hand holding” sessions.

Example 2 :
Training through pressure (also known as Escape Training) – You are teaching your dog to lie down and you step on the leash close to the dogs collar. The dog stands there with his head bent toward the ground, you wait… after 30 seconds the dog lies down on the ground and you immediately step off of the leash and release the unpleasant pressure. Next time the dog gets the idea faster and faster. Soon he is plopping down with the slightest pressure on the leash.

Pros:
Negative Reinforcement training works on virtually every dog.
Fast results are undeniable.

Cons:
Some temperaments may do better with a different type of training.
Some people may have values that may conflict with this type of training.

Positive Punishment DECREASES Behavior

Positive Punishment means you are giving something unpleasant to the dog – a collar correction for example. This is also called Avoidance Training.

Example 1 :
You ask the dog to sit and he ignores you – you administer a collar correction and tell the dog to sit simultaneously and the dog sits. The collar correction would decrease the behavior of ignoring the sit command allowing him to avoid a collar correction in the future.

Example 2 :
Your dog is whining/barking and his electronic bark collar gives a small shock and the dog is startled into ceasing to whine/bark. After a few more repetitions the dog realizes that consistently after whining/barking it receives an unpleasant shock and it is soon a quiet pup in order to avoid receiving a shock when the collar is on the dog.

Pros:
Makes behaviors more consistent and reliable.

Cons:
Some people may have values that may conflict with this type of training.

Negative Punishment DECREASES Behavior

Negative Punishment is when you take something away that the dog experiences as pleasurable.

Example 1 :
You catch your puppy chewing on your shoe (something he is finding pleasurable) and you yank it out of his mouth and storm off frustrated. The puppy is now unhappy – he has neither the shoe nor you.

Example 2 :
You are at the park allowing your dog to play with other dogs. He ignores your command to come “check-in” with you when he hears your call, looks at you, and decides to go back to playing anyway. You proceed out to the group of playing dogs, grab his collar and take him home. The next time the situation arises he is more likely to obey.

Pros:
Makes behaviors more consistent and reliable.

Cons:
Some people may have values that may conflict with this type of training.

Conclusion

Some trainers use some or all of the four components of Operant Conditioning. Some components may work faster or have different results on different dogs.